In thinking about the new year, I realized that I have a few travels already planned and that maybe I should get back to trying to document them. In April, I expect to be traveling to Ohio for a conference. In May, the family is going to Arizona for my mother's 80th birthday. In July, we're going to spend a week on Cape Breton with my mother and sister - who are flying into Halifax after their trip to England. Then, in late August I'll head to Minnesota for the fall term. I'm holding my breath regarding a possible trip in June to... Rwanda! I hesitate to even type it as I'm so hoping it happens. Don't yet know for sure. So, having pretty much abandoned blogging for facebook, I thought that the coming year might just justify a return.
There have been a few good trips that didn't make it into the blog - e.g., a wonderful week in L'Anse-St.-Jean, Quebec in August 2009. But, time being what it is...
So, stay tuned my imaginary friends. Maybe I'll get back into the swing of things after all!
31 December 2010
06 August 2009
Campobello Island
On Friday, 31 July, we left downtown Fredericton for Campobello at 5:05 pm. We had decided to take the overland route, via Calais, rather than try to make the ferries. Good thing. By the time we were halfway between Calais and the island it was really raining.
At the St. Stephen-Calais border we encountered a slight delay as a group of elderly veterans (or, seniors, as our son would say - he's been watching too much Corner Gas) having a little walk-across-the-bridge-with-flags ceremony. Turns out it was not only New Brunswick Day weekend, but the Calais bicentennial. Not sure what the significance of the ceremony actually was, but after about 15 minutes we were on our way.
For those of you who don't realize it, Campobello Island is in New Brunswick. That is, it is in Canada. So, by taking the land route we were passing through the US to go back into Canada. Around 8 pm we crossed the bridge and were on the island. Fortunately, even with the rain there was still some daylight. We headed up island on 774 and found Pollock Cove Cottages.
One of the owners was just about to close up. She had left a note on the office door and was going to leave the cottage open and the key on the table. But, as she was still there, I was able to pay up and get the key.
Now, let me first say that I really don't like posting negative reviews. This is exponentially true when the place I'm reviewing is a small, family business. But, I work hard for my money and you, no doubt, do, too. So, considering that...
I cannot give Pollock Cove a "thumbs up." First, we were clearly in one of the older cottages and they are not shown on the web site. But, I'm okay with old. As long as it's clean and the beds reasonable, I'm okay. But, this was not exactly, well, sparkling. I'm sympathetic to beach and ski resort places that face the constant challenge of outdoor enthusiasts who are less enthusiastic about keeping, e.g., the sand outside or the skiis off the walls. But, really. Nonetheless, we had indoor plumbing - albeit the kitchen sink doubled as the "bathroom sink" - and decent pillows. The latter is essential for good sleeping and I had forgotten to bring mine.
We decided to get up on Saturday morning, dress, and go - sans shower. Keep that in mind - I'll come back to that in a bit.
As it turned out, we had one of the most perfect weather days of the summer. Clear, blue, fabulous. First, we had breakfast at Lupine Lodge at the Adams Estate. It's a nice, old lodge with a great view. Breakfast was fine. Not spectacular, but decent. The server was very pleasant and, all in all, we were pleased. Good thing since there are about two places to eat on the island.
From there we went over to Roosevelt Campobello International Park. I really enjoyed this. First of all, it's free admission. No complaint there. The 17 minute introduction film and exhibits in the visitor center were great. Shortly after we arrived they started a free walking tour of the grounds surrounding the cottage. We heard about the Linden trees and the bees that literally fall out of them, "drunk." We heard about the grand old hotels for a tourist industry whose "hey day" lasted only about thirty years. We wandered down to the shore where a staff person was available to answer questions. That's the spot where FDR was carried off the island, having been stricken by polio. Then we toured the cottage itself. And, this is just one part of the park.
Then, being New Brunswick Day weekend, we went to a little - festival? BBQ? all are too grand - at the Campobello Public Library and Museum. It's a great little building. Unlike the photos on the website, it has recently been completely re-sided with beautiful cedar shingles that have not yet weathered. We had some sausages/hot dogs, chatted with a few folks, and were on our way.
On our way out to Head Harbour/East Quoddy Lighthouse, we stopped and booked a 4:00 whale watch with Island Cruises.
The grassroots organization that is now trying to save the lighthouse has set up a little "shack" where they charge $5.00 to hike out the lighthouse islands. Children under 12 are free. I'm not actually sure if they could stop you if you walked out and didn't pay, but I was happy to contribute to their efforts. There is a fairly steep, but not terribly long, set up iron steps down to a beach. Across the beach, a similar set of steps takes you back up to the next island. Then there's a wooden bridge. Finally, there's a much longer set of steps. With a bad knee, I passed on that last set up steps, while the rest of the family went on. The views are spectacular. From where I waited I could see not only the lighthouse, but porpoises just off shore. I highly recommend a trip out to the lighthouse, even if you aren't up to the final set of steps!
On to the whale watch. Now, I've gone whale watching before. I am aware of some of the controversy over enterprises such as these. I chose this one because I liked the fact that they actually do work re the whales. They have engaged in some major whale rescue efforts. I also liked that they have small boats, unlike the large vessels used in many other places (e.g., Provincetown). Our boat was limited to 20 passengers. The blue boat at the bottom left in the photo, below, is Mister Matthew, our cruise ship. During the two hour cruise we saw several minke whales, lots of seals, several porpoises, and an eagle. I'd call it a success.
Not having had a real lunch we were ravenous. We went to Family Fisheries, one of the two places on the island to eat. Note: Herring Cove Provincial Park apparently has a restaurant at the golf course, be we saw no advertising and didn't go looking for it. Although I had seen good reviews online, I was really disappointed. The onion rings were great. The lobster salad, tasteless except for the pieces that tasted, well, strange. I went away hoping I wasn't going to become ill. The place is constantly busy. I don't know if this is because there are so few options or because it is really a great place. I might go back, but I'd stick to something fried. On the other hand, my partner had scallops that she said were good. If I were a restaurant reviewer I'd have to go back another time or two before really drawing a conclusion, but, given how hungry I was, it was a real disappointment.
We got back to the cottage, planning on showering... Alas, the cold water tap did nothing but spin. And, the office was closed and nobody was home. I thought maybe they were because I could see a the flicker and glow of a giant flat screen television. Nope, apparently the dog was watching it and s/he refused to answer the door. So, no showers for us. CAD$100/night and we couldn't bathe. Lovely.
Later that evening we headed out to find the fireworks that the library event had advertised. Alas, we saw and heard nothing at or near the "ferry landing" that was noted on the flyer. More on this later.
On Sunday morning we went back to the Lupine Lodge for breakfast. I was hankering for some oatmeal. My partner asked for blueberries, bananas, and walnuts with hers. We knew they had some because they served a pancake that way. I asked for some walnuts. She received a nice side bowl of the mix. I received a small dish - the kind that nicer restaurants often serve ketchup in - of walnuts. I had to ask for brown sugar. But, after looking high and low, they were unable to find any. I knew it was usually served with it - I had seen it the morning before. I had to ask for some milk. So, I was a bit annoyed - are you sensing a theme here? - when they charged me $1.00 for about six walnut halves. The $2.95 for the fruit and nuts didn't seem unreasonable, but $1.00 for the nuts when they didn't have brown sugar and I had to ask for milk... on top of the $5.95 oatmeal. Let's just say, Cora's does it right.
We stopped at the Campobello Gift House just to check it out. I walked in and said, to the clerk at the counter, "Weren't you the librarian yesterday?" Indeed, she was. Such is life on the island. We were able to find out about the fireworks. Turned out that after scratching out "Herring Cove" on all of the brochures and writing "Ferry Landing," they had them at Herring Cove. But, as we had suspected, it was not a civic production, but a bunch of folks who went out and bought some fireworks to shoot off. Not really our thing. She said that they had tried posting the change to facebook... Uh, and we were supposed to check something online how? Oh, well.
We had decided to take the ferry over to Deer Island and check it out. Let's just say that we've decided that we are folks who require a little more in the way of infrastructure than the islands off New Brunswick provide.
But, we had a decent lunch - fish and chips for me, scallop burger for my partner, and chicken fingers for the boy - at the 45th Parallel Restaurant. It was another lovely day and we could see the water from the terrace where we were seated.
Driving further up the island, we then happened upon a nice little craft shop, Fireball. I overheard the proprietor/artist telling someone else about a great place to look for sea glass. I later asked where it was. She said, "Oh, that's over on Campobello." "Oh, that's where we're staying," I said. She went on to describe it as a small beach that looks private, but isn't, behind a motel of sorts. She looked it up in the tourist rag and said... "Pollock Cove...!" Too funny.
After driving around some really desolate areas we headed back to the Eastport/Campobello ferry. While waiting we went up into a campground where you can make out the area of the Old Sow, the largest tidal whirlpool in the North America, the western hemisphere, or the world - depending on who you believe.
Here's an interesting little observation. We watched cars drive off the ferry from Eastport - that is in Maine. Each car stopped at the Canadian customs officer. There is no booth, no vehicle, just the officer standing in the road. Not once did she ask for ID. I repeat, not once. We then took the ferry over to Eastport. Driving off we could see the US Customs SUV and two officers. We provided our passports, answered the questions, and watched our passports be scanned. We were in. Note: I can't remember when we've been processed by a woman US Customs officer. About half of the Canadian Customs officials we've seen have been women. We spent a little time in Eastport, exploring the lovely "downtown" right on the water that is being renewed, its history being saved and "marketed." If the time had been right we would have visited the Pickled Herring as it looked great. Next time.
From there we drove back to Campobello. We stopped at Polar Treat in Perry, Maine - where I had the best coffee milk shake I've had in ages. We stopped at Monica's Chocolates in Lubec, Maine and picked up a gift for our gerbil-sitter. We also picked up two bon-bons for ourselves. Gotta taste-test, ya' know. And, before crossing the bridge back to Campobello, we stopped at the Atlantic House for some decent, but ridiculously over-priced (US$7.50) sandwiches.
All in all we had a good day. Perfect weather. No traffic. Two ferry rides. Decent food.
Upon our return we wandered down to the beach and, sure enough, found lots of sea glass! Of course we found mostly browns, whites, and greens - the most common, but we also found a few small pieces of blue - one of the most sought after. Now I just have to figure out what I can make from it.
On Monday we were up and on the road at 7 am. We had two chairs waiting for us at Hayes Unfinished Furniture in Brewer so we decided to take the long way home, via Bar Harbor - which my partner had never visited - so that we could pick them up. I made my first and only trip to Bar Harbor twenty years ago. I hope we'll get back soon so that we can spend some time at Acadia National Park. I'll save my thoughts on Bar Harbor for a post when we really have time to visit, but, in brief, you can't go wrong on the coast of Maine.
So, that's it for Campobello. It's beautiful and rustic. We've talked a lot about what would make it more appealing (for us), but how some of that would also - potentially - lead to what wold make it less appealing. Interesting tensions. We had the same reaction to Grand Manan, which we visited last August, though I never posted about it.
The Campobello Tourism site says, "Campobello has changed little over the centuries since it was inhabited" and that "New Brunswick, known as the gateway to Atlantic Canada, is one of Canada's most historic, picturesque and untouched provinces." Very true. And that is both the beauty and the challenge of it all.
Would we go back to Campobello? Yes. But, there are so many other places we want to visit that it probably won't be any time soon. And, we'd go better prepared - e.g., with a car full of groceries. But, do I recommend it? Yes, if you enjoy the natural beauty of the North Atlantic coast. Absolutely.
At the St. Stephen-Calais border we encountered a slight delay as a group of elderly veterans (or, seniors, as our son would say - he's been watching too much Corner Gas) having a little walk-across-the-bridge-with-flags ceremony. Turns out it was not only New Brunswick Day weekend, but the Calais bicentennial. Not sure what the significance of the ceremony actually was, but after about 15 minutes we were on our way.
For those of you who don't realize it, Campobello Island is in New Brunswick. That is, it is in Canada. So, by taking the land route we were passing through the US to go back into Canada. Around 8 pm we crossed the bridge and were on the island. Fortunately, even with the rain there was still some daylight. We headed up island on 774 and found Pollock Cove Cottages.
One of the owners was just about to close up. She had left a note on the office door and was going to leave the cottage open and the key on the table. But, as she was still there, I was able to pay up and get the key.
Now, let me first say that I really don't like posting negative reviews. This is exponentially true when the place I'm reviewing is a small, family business. But, I work hard for my money and you, no doubt, do, too. So, considering that...
I cannot give Pollock Cove a "thumbs up." First, we were clearly in one of the older cottages and they are not shown on the web site. But, I'm okay with old. As long as it's clean and the beds reasonable, I'm okay. But, this was not exactly, well, sparkling. I'm sympathetic to beach and ski resort places that face the constant challenge of outdoor enthusiasts who are less enthusiastic about keeping, e.g., the sand outside or the skiis off the walls. But, really. Nonetheless, we had indoor plumbing - albeit the kitchen sink doubled as the "bathroom sink" - and decent pillows. The latter is essential for good sleeping and I had forgotten to bring mine.
We decided to get up on Saturday morning, dress, and go - sans shower. Keep that in mind - I'll come back to that in a bit.
As it turned out, we had one of the most perfect weather days of the summer. Clear, blue, fabulous. First, we had breakfast at Lupine Lodge at the Adams Estate. It's a nice, old lodge with a great view. Breakfast was fine. Not spectacular, but decent. The server was very pleasant and, all in all, we were pleased. Good thing since there are about two places to eat on the island.
From there we went over to Roosevelt Campobello International Park. I really enjoyed this. First of all, it's free admission. No complaint there. The 17 minute introduction film and exhibits in the visitor center were great. Shortly after we arrived they started a free walking tour of the grounds surrounding the cottage. We heard about the Linden trees and the bees that literally fall out of them, "drunk." We heard about the grand old hotels for a tourist industry whose "hey day" lasted only about thirty years. We wandered down to the shore where a staff person was available to answer questions. That's the spot where FDR was carried off the island, having been stricken by polio. Then we toured the cottage itself. And, this is just one part of the park.
Then, being New Brunswick Day weekend, we went to a little - festival? BBQ? all are too grand - at the Campobello Public Library and Museum. It's a great little building. Unlike the photos on the website, it has recently been completely re-sided with beautiful cedar shingles that have not yet weathered. We had some sausages/hot dogs, chatted with a few folks, and were on our way.
On our way out to Head Harbour/East Quoddy Lighthouse, we stopped and booked a 4:00 whale watch with Island Cruises.
The grassroots organization that is now trying to save the lighthouse has set up a little "shack" where they charge $5.00 to hike out the lighthouse islands. Children under 12 are free. I'm not actually sure if they could stop you if you walked out and didn't pay, but I was happy to contribute to their efforts. There is a fairly steep, but not terribly long, set up iron steps down to a beach. Across the beach, a similar set of steps takes you back up to the next island. Then there's a wooden bridge. Finally, there's a much longer set of steps. With a bad knee, I passed on that last set up steps, while the rest of the family went on. The views are spectacular. From where I waited I could see not only the lighthouse, but porpoises just off shore. I highly recommend a trip out to the lighthouse, even if you aren't up to the final set of steps!
On to the whale watch. Now, I've gone whale watching before. I am aware of some of the controversy over enterprises such as these. I chose this one because I liked the fact that they actually do work re the whales. They have engaged in some major whale rescue efforts. I also liked that they have small boats, unlike the large vessels used in many other places (e.g., Provincetown). Our boat was limited to 20 passengers. The blue boat at the bottom left in the photo, below, is Mister Matthew, our cruise ship. During the two hour cruise we saw several minke whales, lots of seals, several porpoises, and an eagle. I'd call it a success.
Not having had a real lunch we were ravenous. We went to Family Fisheries, one of the two places on the island to eat. Note: Herring Cove Provincial Park apparently has a restaurant at the golf course, be we saw no advertising and didn't go looking for it. Although I had seen good reviews online, I was really disappointed. The onion rings were great. The lobster salad, tasteless except for the pieces that tasted, well, strange. I went away hoping I wasn't going to become ill. The place is constantly busy. I don't know if this is because there are so few options or because it is really a great place. I might go back, but I'd stick to something fried. On the other hand, my partner had scallops that she said were good. If I were a restaurant reviewer I'd have to go back another time or two before really drawing a conclusion, but, given how hungry I was, it was a real disappointment.
We got back to the cottage, planning on showering... Alas, the cold water tap did nothing but spin. And, the office was closed and nobody was home. I thought maybe they were because I could see a the flicker and glow of a giant flat screen television. Nope, apparently the dog was watching it and s/he refused to answer the door. So, no showers for us. CAD$100/night and we couldn't bathe. Lovely.
Later that evening we headed out to find the fireworks that the library event had advertised. Alas, we saw and heard nothing at or near the "ferry landing" that was noted on the flyer. More on this later.
On Sunday morning we went back to the Lupine Lodge for breakfast. I was hankering for some oatmeal. My partner asked for blueberries, bananas, and walnuts with hers. We knew they had some because they served a pancake that way. I asked for some walnuts. She received a nice side bowl of the mix. I received a small dish - the kind that nicer restaurants often serve ketchup in - of walnuts. I had to ask for brown sugar. But, after looking high and low, they were unable to find any. I knew it was usually served with it - I had seen it the morning before. I had to ask for some milk. So, I was a bit annoyed - are you sensing a theme here? - when they charged me $1.00 for about six walnut halves. The $2.95 for the fruit and nuts didn't seem unreasonable, but $1.00 for the nuts when they didn't have brown sugar and I had to ask for milk... on top of the $5.95 oatmeal. Let's just say, Cora's does it right.
We stopped at the Campobello Gift House just to check it out. I walked in and said, to the clerk at the counter, "Weren't you the librarian yesterday?" Indeed, she was. Such is life on the island. We were able to find out about the fireworks. Turned out that after scratching out "Herring Cove" on all of the brochures and writing "Ferry Landing," they had them at Herring Cove. But, as we had suspected, it was not a civic production, but a bunch of folks who went out and bought some fireworks to shoot off. Not really our thing. She said that they had tried posting the change to facebook... Uh, and we were supposed to check something online how? Oh, well.
We had decided to take the ferry over to Deer Island and check it out. Let's just say that we've decided that we are folks who require a little more in the way of infrastructure than the islands off New Brunswick provide.
But, we had a decent lunch - fish and chips for me, scallop burger for my partner, and chicken fingers for the boy - at the 45th Parallel Restaurant. It was another lovely day and we could see the water from the terrace where we were seated.
Driving further up the island, we then happened upon a nice little craft shop, Fireball. I overheard the proprietor/artist telling someone else about a great place to look for sea glass. I later asked where it was. She said, "Oh, that's over on Campobello." "Oh, that's where we're staying," I said. She went on to describe it as a small beach that looks private, but isn't, behind a motel of sorts. She looked it up in the tourist rag and said... "Pollock Cove...!" Too funny.
After driving around some really desolate
Here's an interesting little observation. We watched cars drive off the ferry from Eastport - that is in Maine. Each car stopped at the Canadian customs officer. There is no booth, no vehicle, just the officer standing in the road. Not once did she ask for ID. I repeat, not once. We then took the ferry over to Eastport. Driving off we could see the US Customs SUV and two officers. We provided our passports, answered the questions, and watched our passports be scanned. We were in. Note: I can't remember when we've been processed by a woman US Customs officer. About half of the Canadian Customs officials we've seen have been women. We spent a little time in Eastport, exploring the lovely "downtown" right on the water that is being renewed, its history being saved and "marketed." If the time had been right we would have visited the Pickled Herring as it looked great. Next time.
From there we drove back to Campobello. We stopped at Polar Treat in Perry, Maine - where I had the best coffee milk shake I've had in ages. We stopped at Monica's Chocolates in Lubec, Maine and picked up a gift for our gerbil-sitter. We also picked up two bon-bons for ourselves. Gotta taste-test, ya' know. And, before crossing the bridge back to Campobello, we stopped at the Atlantic House for some decent, but ridiculously over-priced (US$7.50) sandwiches.
All in all we had a good day. Perfect weather. No traffic. Two ferry rides. Decent food.
Upon our return we wandered down to the beach and, sure enough, found lots of sea glass! Of course we found mostly browns, whites, and greens - the most common, but we also found a few small pieces of blue - one of the most sought after. Now I just have to figure out what I can make from it.
On Monday we were up and on the road at 7 am. We had two chairs waiting for us at Hayes Unfinished Furniture in Brewer so we decided to take the long way home, via Bar Harbor - which my partner had never visited - so that we could pick them up. I made my first and only trip to Bar Harbor twenty years ago. I hope we'll get back soon so that we can spend some time at Acadia National Park. I'll save my thoughts on Bar Harbor for a post when we really have time to visit, but, in brief, you can't go wrong on the coast of Maine.
So, that's it for Campobello. It's beautiful and rustic. We've talked a lot about what would make it more appealing (for us), but how some of that would also - potentially - lead to what wold make it less appealing. Interesting tensions. We had the same reaction to Grand Manan, which we visited last August, though I never posted about it.
The Campobello Tourism site says, "Campobello has changed little over the centuries since it was inhabited" and that "New Brunswick, known as the gateway to Atlantic Canada, is one of Canada's most historic, picturesque and untouched provinces." Very true. And that is both the beauty and the challenge of it all.
Would we go back to Campobello? Yes. But, there are so many other places we want to visit that it probably won't be any time soon. And, we'd go better prepared - e.g., with a car full of groceries. But, do I recommend it? Yes, if you enjoy the natural beauty of the North Atlantic coast. Absolutely.
Two Years
Well, it's been over two years since I posted to this blog. Since that time we've moved to Canada and built a house. It's been, well, one hell of a ride. We've also traveled to Nova Scotia again, done some great day trips in New Brunswick, and spent the weekend on Campobello Island. So, I thought maybe I'd try to get back to it, especially to post informal "reviews" of places we visit/stay/eat and so on. Fingers crossed!
14 July 2007
We're baaaack!
I was able to get our itinerary changed to two legs instead of three. Upon the advice of the agent at the Halifax airport, we tried Gravol (aka Dramamine) and 6YO managed both flights without getting sick. We hadn't looked for children's Dramamine before, but she knew that Gravol was available in a children's formula.
Due to a major snafu in Detroit - they apparently downsized the aircraft without regard for the number of people with assigned seats - we almost didn't make the second flight. They ended up giving us seats in different rows and center seats at that. Now, you have to understand that I buy tickets months in advance for a reason. I mark the calendar for 90 days out so that I can be sure to get an aisle seat. I told the flight attendant that if I had to sit in the middle I'd never fly NWA again. She asked an off-duty pilot who was seated in an aisle seat if he would mind moving over. He didn't say yes, he didn't say no. He mumbled, "It's a whole new world" and moved over, never saying a word the entire flight. Nice "face of NWA." Add to that the flight attendant who called me "sir" twice and I was not a happy camper. But, we made it back and our house was still standing. The cat was mad, but the house was still standing.
That's about it! I know I'll be traveling several times this coming year, but - for now- I'm glad to be staying put. I've been home two out of the past six weeks and while I'm really fortunate to have been able to make the trips, I'm tired! I need a vacation!
Due to a major snafu in Detroit - they apparently downsized the aircraft without regard for the number of people with assigned seats - we almost didn't make the second flight. They ended up giving us seats in different rows and center seats at that. Now, you have to understand that I buy tickets months in advance for a reason. I mark the calendar for 90 days out so that I can be sure to get an aisle seat. I told the flight attendant that if I had to sit in the middle I'd never fly NWA again. She asked an off-duty pilot who was seated in an aisle seat if he would mind moving over. He didn't say yes, he didn't say no. He mumbled, "It's a whole new world" and moved over, never saying a word the entire flight. Nice "face of NWA." Add to that the flight attendant who called me "sir" twice and I was not a happy camper. But, we made it back and our house was still standing. The cat was mad, but the house was still standing.
That's about it! I know I'll be traveling several times this coming year, but - for now- I'm glad to be staying put. I've been home two out of the past six weeks and while I'm really fortunate to have been able to make the trips, I'm tired! I need a vacation!
12 July 2007
Travel Update
We were able to find another room in the area, but then the hotel we were in last night was able to accommodate us so we'll be here for another night. That makes things easier! And, I hear the hot tub calling my name.
I went over to the airport this morning because I can't get through to NWA by phone and it kept telling me that I couldn't re-book on-line. We are re-booked for tomorrow, but on three flights. Ugh! There seem to be plenty of seats on a number of Detroit to Minneapolis flights so if I can ever get through by phone... The agent at the airport here can't make changes.
The good news is that we have a car. The bad news is that the fog has usually lifted by this time and it's just pea soup out there. If NWA cancels tonight's inbound flight we're in a world of hurt. The good news is that I have Internet access.
That's about it. I just thought I'd post an update in case anyone is reading. Cheerio!
I went over to the airport this morning because I can't get through to NWA by phone and it kept telling me that I couldn't re-book on-line. We are re-booked for tomorrow, but on three flights. Ugh! There seem to be plenty of seats on a number of Detroit to Minneapolis flights so if I can ever get through by phone... The agent at the airport here can't make changes.
The good news is that we have a car. The bad news is that the fog has usually lifted by this time and it's just pea soup out there. If NWA cancels tonight's inbound flight we're in a world of hurt. The good news is that I have Internet access.
That's about it. I just thought I'd post an update in case anyone is reading. Cheerio!
11 July 2007
Weather
Well, be careful what you wish for. All day we were bemoaning the fact that we have to leave the Maritimes. Guess what? We're stuck here. We spent the day in Halifax - made it to Pier 21 and the Discovery Centre - and then drove out to the hotel right down the road from the airport. Perfect planning, right?
Because it was so foggy I checked the NWA website and, sure enough, they've already cancelled tomorrow morning's flight to Detroit, presumably because they had to cancel the flight that was due to arrive tonight. There's nothing else scheduled to go out tomorrow so we'll be here until Friday. The hotel is booked for tomorrow night, but luckily we found something else reasonable nearby. The good news is that since we're already into the fifth day of week two for the car it doesn't matter if we keep it until Saturday. The bad news is that nwa.com has a tentative re-book that involves three flights - Halifax to Detroit to Indianapolis to Minneapolis. But, it won't let us re-book on-line, nor can we get through to an agent! Lovely. I actually drove over to the airport, but the NWA person was gone for the night.
In related news, P was supposed to be in a one-credit, two day class, beginning Friday morning. 6YO had a dental appointment for Friday morning. And, the kennel is booked up so we have a friend picking up our dog - thank heavens - for us.
So, to recap, we have this room until noon. If they haven't had enough cancellations - we're fifth on the waiting list - we'll have to check out and move to another hotel. Somewhere in there we have to get confirmations for Friday's flights and hope we don't have another round of bad weather.
Keep your fingers crossed for us. We wanted to stay in Canada, but not under these conditions!
Because it was so foggy I checked the NWA website and, sure enough, they've already cancelled tomorrow morning's flight to Detroit, presumably because they had to cancel the flight that was due to arrive tonight. There's nothing else scheduled to go out tomorrow so we'll be here until Friday. The hotel is booked for tomorrow night, but luckily we found something else reasonable nearby. The good news is that since we're already into the fifth day of week two for the car it doesn't matter if we keep it until Saturday. The bad news is that nwa.com has a tentative re-book that involves three flights - Halifax to Detroit to Indianapolis to Minneapolis. But, it won't let us re-book on-line, nor can we get through to an agent! Lovely. I actually drove over to the airport, but the NWA person was gone for the night.
In related news, P was supposed to be in a one-credit, two day class, beginning Friday morning. 6YO had a dental appointment for Friday morning. And, the kennel is booked up so we have a friend picking up our dog - thank heavens - for us.
So, to recap, we have this room until noon. If they haven't had enough cancellations - we're fifth on the waiting list - we'll have to check out and move to another hotel. Somewhere in there we have to get confirmations for Friday's flights and hope we don't have another round of bad weather.
Keep your fingers crossed for us. We wanted to stay in Canada, but not under these conditions!
10 July 2007
New Brunswick, Part IV
Greetings from Moncton, where we are spending our last night in New Brunswick. Yesterday, Monday, we went over to UNB where E visited with the law school. Sounds like she had a good visit. 6YO and I walked around campus, stopped by the sociology department, and went looking for a couple of my colleagues in the psych department. They weren't in and as we were leaving campus I stopped by once more to check. As I was leaving the building they were parking right outside the door. We had a nice visit and made plans to have lunch on Tuesday. We had a casual afternoon in F'ton that included a visit to a nice little art supply store, Endeavours, and a walk along the St. John. Had the weather been a little warmer we would have rented a couple of kayaks, but, while sunny, it was cool. Not much else to report there!
This morning we drove around town a bit and met my colleagues for lunch at a great little place, The Palate. We had promised 6YO a visit to the toy store, ThinkPlay a "sister store" of the art supply store so, afterwards, off we went. We ended up chatting with the owner for a while, a nice young Fredericton native named Luke. The store was fun, too! In addition to some cool art and science toys there were a number of retro candies like fizzies, Mary Janes, Bit o' Honey, and this very flat taffy, the name of which I can't recall - but I remember it from the 60s! 6YO got some neat little animals that are cut in two and stick together with magnets. I sounds weird, I know, but they're entertaining.
After the toy store we made our way out of town and, after a brief stop in Oromocto for beverages, we were on our way. We arrived in Moncton around 5 and E and 6Yo went for a swim while I did some email. It's now almost 9 pm and soon I'll be sleeping! Tomorrow is our last day on the road. We plan to spend it in Halifax. But, as you know - anything is subject to change!
This morning we drove around town a bit and met my colleagues for lunch at a great little place, The Palate. We had promised 6YO a visit to the toy store, ThinkPlay a "sister store" of the art supply store so, afterwards, off we went. We ended up chatting with the owner for a while, a nice young Fredericton native named Luke. The store was fun, too! In addition to some cool art and science toys there were a number of retro candies like fizzies, Mary Janes, Bit o' Honey, and this very flat taffy, the name of which I can't recall - but I remember it from the 60s! 6YO got some neat little animals that are cut in two and stick together with magnets. I sounds weird, I know, but they're entertaining.
After the toy store we made our way out of town and, after a brief stop in Oromocto for beverages, we were on our way. We arrived in Moncton around 5 and E and 6Yo went for a swim while I did some email. It's now almost 9 pm and soon I'll be sleeping! Tomorrow is our last day on the road. We plan to spend it in Halifax. But, as you know - anything is subject to change!
08 July 2007
New Brunswick, Part III
This has truly been the vacation of changing plans! This morning we thought we'd go to the Mactaquac area, do some light hiking, etc. But, when it started raining, looking a lot more threatening than the forecast had predicted, we decided to drive down to St. Stephen and visit the Chocolate Museum. It was sprinkling a good part of the way and then it cleared! When we arrived we walked across the border to Calais, Maine. E and 6YO had never been to Maine so now they could "check off" another state. We stopped at their fabulous Downeast Heritage Museum and, discovering that the restaurant I had read about was closed on Sundays, we walked back across to St. Stephen. This time we used our PR cards to enter Canada. Woo-hoo!
Returning to St. Stephen we had lunch at St. Jerome's, in the building that used to be the chocolate factory. E had a "scallop burger" - scallops on a bun - and I had fish and chips with salmon as the fish. We then visited the Chocolate Museum - they have trays of samples at the admission counter and each of the other rooms. Yum! It's small, but really interesting with a couple of good videos. We then went to the other end of the building to buy, of course, a few treats.
When we left the chocolatier we drove toward St. Andrews by the Sea, a lovely little resort town on the water. Lo' and behold it was sunny! So much for those meteorologists! We followed the excellent signage and found Katy's Cove, a great little beach. They have toys, "butterfly/fishing" nets, a volleyball net, lifeguards, and a wonderful playground that 6YO didn't even bother with. Nope - he caught, and released, crill, crab, a miniature eel, and a jellyfish. Our little marine biologist. After a couple of hours we headed back toward F'ton, making it back before dark.
We decided to extend our stay - yes, changes again - so we cancelled our reservation in Halifax, and made one for Moncton. Now we'll be here Monday evening after all. Then we can spend the bulk of Tuesday here. In the late afternoon or evening we'll drive to Moncton and spend the night, breaking up the trip back to Halifax, but really, just giving us extra time here.
That's about it. Tomorrow we're going to visit UNB and have a quieter day here in town.
Returning to St. Stephen we had lunch at St. Jerome's, in the building that used to be the chocolate factory. E had a "scallop burger" - scallops on a bun - and I had fish and chips with salmon as the fish. We then visited the Chocolate Museum - they have trays of samples at the admission counter and each of the other rooms. Yum! It's small, but really interesting with a couple of good videos. We then went to the other end of the building to buy, of course, a few treats.
When we left the chocolatier we drove toward St. Andrews by the Sea, a lovely little resort town on the water. Lo' and behold it was sunny! So much for those meteorologists! We followed the excellent signage and found Katy's Cove, a great little beach. They have toys, "butterfly/fishing" nets, a volleyball net, lifeguards, and a wonderful playground that 6YO didn't even bother with. Nope - he caught, and released, crill, crab, a miniature eel, and a jellyfish. Our little marine biologist. After a couple of hours we headed back toward F'ton, making it back before dark.
We decided to extend our stay - yes, changes again - so we cancelled our reservation in Halifax, and made one for Moncton. Now we'll be here Monday evening after all. Then we can spend the bulk of Tuesday here. In the late afternoon or evening we'll drive to Moncton and spend the night, breaking up the trip back to Halifax, but really, just giving us extra time here.
That's about it. Tomorrow we're going to visit UNB and have a quieter day here in town.
New Brunswick, Part II
Today is Sunday. Let me try to catch you up on what's been happening since Thursday evening when I last wrote. On Friday I had a delightful visit with the chair of the sociology department here at UNB. Then, back with the family, we went out for a nice lunch downtown. So far the hotel and two restaurants have had "toy chests" where kids get to choose something. You can imagine what a big hit that is! Afterwards the skies cleared and we started at City Hall - there's a tourist office there - walked past the Historic Garrison District, down to the bridge, out to the middle of the St. John river, back down a few blocks, past some wonderful old homes, and back to the car. From there we made the obligatory trip to a bookstore. All in all we had a terrific day in Fredericton and got a much better feel for the area.
On Saturday we got up early, battled a busload of tourists who were trying to grab breakfast and get out of the hotel, and went to the W.W. Boyce Farmers' Market. To say it was terrific is an understatement. Cheese, meats, baked goods, produce - organic and not, woodcarvers, Birkenstocks, photographers, earrings, knitted caps, hula-hoops... you name it. And that doesn't include the samosa, mini-doughnut, waffle, kabab, and fresh squeezed orange juice vendors - to name a few. We walked away with strawberries, kettle korn, a fabric fortune cookie, mini-doughnuts, date bars, and two samosas. But, the real surprise was the guy who had St- Viateur bagels shipped in from Montreal. I had brought some back with me last summer and E loved them! So, yes, we picked up a bag of those, too. Needless to say we wouldn't starve on our road trip, even if we did run out of gas!
Around 9 am we headed out of town. We had planned to spend the day in the St. George- St. Stephen area, but when it looked like the skies were going to remain clear we decided to go to Hopewell Rocks. Fortunately I realized that Mapquest probably only gives you the fastest or "most-highway" route and decided to veer off and down through Fundy National Park. Oh my, but when you crest the road and see the bay in front of you- wow. It was spectacular. We drove through the park and east. We then spent the day at Hopewell Rocks, arriving minutes after low tide and leaving minutes before "official" high tide. We walked several trails, had lunch, and just "hung out." 6YO used his new "bug viewer" to catch and release ants, grasshoppers, flies, etc. The big attraction is the area with the "Flower Pot rocks." We also walked down the path to Demoiselles Beach. We didn't run into a soul going down or back. Down at the beach you could see how quickly the tide was coming in. I let a wave wash over my toes. That was just fun - to have the Bay of Fundy washing over my feet. Around 6:30 we made our way back via Moncton, returning to the hotel around 9. All in all, a great day.
On Saturday we got up early, battled a busload of tourists who were trying to grab breakfast and get out of the hotel, and went to the W.W. Boyce Farmers' Market. To say it was terrific is an understatement. Cheese, meats, baked goods, produce - organic and not, woodcarvers, Birkenstocks, photographers, earrings, knitted caps, hula-hoops... you name it. And that doesn't include the samosa, mini-doughnut, waffle, kabab, and fresh squeezed orange juice vendors - to name a few. We walked away with strawberries, kettle korn, a fabric fortune cookie, mini-doughnuts, date bars, and two samosas. But, the real surprise was the guy who had St- Viateur bagels shipped in from Montreal. I had brought some back with me last summer and E loved them! So, yes, we picked up a bag of those, too. Needless to say we wouldn't starve on our road trip, even if we did run out of gas!
Around 9 am we headed out of town. We had planned to spend the day in the St. George- St. Stephen area, but when it looked like the skies were going to remain clear we decided to go to Hopewell Rocks. Fortunately I realized that Mapquest probably only gives you the fastest or "most-highway" route and decided to veer off and down through Fundy National Park. Oh my, but when you crest the road and see the bay in front of you- wow. It was spectacular. We drove through the park and east. We then spent the day at Hopewell Rocks, arriving minutes after low tide and leaving minutes before "official" high tide. We walked several trails, had lunch, and just "hung out." 6YO used his new "bug viewer" to catch and release ants, grasshoppers, flies, etc. The big attraction is the area with the "Flower Pot rocks." We also walked down the path to Demoiselles Beach. We didn't run into a soul going down or back. Down at the beach you could see how quickly the tide was coming in. I let a wave wash over my toes. That was just fun - to have the Bay of Fundy washing over my feet. Around 6:30 we made our way back via Moncton, returning to the hotel around 9. All in all, a great day.
05 July 2007
New Brunswick, Part I
Yesterday morning, Wednesday, we got up and had yummy waffles, courtesy of our host, C. We packed up and, after giving 6YO a few more minutes to run around with 10YO and the snails, were on our way. 6YO was not happy to be leaving! Just up the road we made a brief stop at the Foxhill Cheesehouse and picked up some treats for the drive. We had originally thought about staying until Thursday, but thought we'd squeeze in a day at the beach.
We made our way back down 101 and cut across 14 to Truro. As we were leaving Truro, where we had stopped for beverages, the gas light came on. Paying attention to the road, etc., I hadn't even noticed. Well, let's just say that the road was pretty desolate. That is, pretty and desolate! I was getting rather nervous! We took the next exit that had a gas station only to find that the gas station had closed, for good. We made it to the next station and, by our calculations, probably had about 9 litres to spare. The signs started reading "New Brunswick" and we were on our way.
We stopped in Moncton just in time to see the tidal bore and then drove back toward Shediac. We went to Parlee Beach where 6YO, again, had the time of his life. He started playing with some kids from Montreal who speak French and attend an English immersion school! I hope he made the connection - that is, that he's not the only kid attending an immersion program. They were collecting crabs, mostly hermit crabs, and putting them in a pool they had made for them. After a few moments of looking threatening, it turned into a great afternoon for the beach. From there we decided to skip the festival, which appeared to be mostly music we wouldn't enjoy and the beer tent, and went to the Lobster Deck/Quay Homard on Main Street. In a reprise of Lunenburg, I had a terrific lobster roll and E had mussels and salad. From there we went to our hotel and I enjoyed the hot tub while 6YO played in the pool. First he played with E and then, while she watched, he played with two girls who had arrived with a beach ball. It was interesting to see them this morning and realize that they were probably Mennonites. Interesting to think about the two Mennonite girls and the boy with two moms playing together without other "stuff" interfering.
This morning, Thursday, we got up and had planned to visit Hopewell Rocks. If you've ever seen a tourism photo from New Brunswick, you've seen Hopewell Rocks. Well, it started raining and we decided to come to Fredericton where we knew that we could visit Science East and remain dry! We arrived before noon and were able to check into our room. Yea! After a few moments to unload, etc., we went for a drive around town, drove past the apartment we might view, and went to Science East. It's a great little science museum for kids. What I found interesting was the fact that up until 1996 it was still the jail. They've kept the basement as a jail museum - that was interesting. Hangings were done as recently as 1957! I had no idea.
Afterwards we drove around UNB and then across the river to Marysville. It was still really gloomy with drizzle every now and again. Unfortunately it's supposed to stay this way through the weekend, but Halifax looks to be the same. I don't mind the gray, but I don't like driving in the rain, especially when I'm trying to navigate my way around a new place.
I'm not sure what we're doing tomorrow - the skies will decide that for us! More as it happens!
We made our way back down 101 and cut across 14 to Truro. As we were leaving Truro, where we had stopped for beverages, the gas light came on. Paying attention to the road, etc., I hadn't even noticed. Well, let's just say that the road was pretty desolate. That is, pretty and desolate! I was getting rather nervous! We took the next exit that had a gas station only to find that the gas station had closed, for good. We made it to the next station and, by our calculations, probably had about 9 litres to spare. The signs started reading "New Brunswick" and we were on our way.
We stopped in Moncton just in time to see the tidal bore and then drove back toward Shediac. We went to Parlee Beach where 6YO, again, had the time of his life. He started playing with some kids from Montreal who speak French and attend an English immersion school! I hope he made the connection - that is, that he's not the only kid attending an immersion program. They were collecting crabs, mostly hermit crabs, and putting them in a pool they had made for them. After a few moments of looking threatening, it turned into a great afternoon for the beach. From there we decided to skip the festival, which appeared to be mostly music we wouldn't enjoy and the beer tent, and went to the Lobster Deck/Quay Homard on Main Street. In a reprise of Lunenburg, I had a terrific lobster roll and E had mussels and salad. From there we went to our hotel and I enjoyed the hot tub while 6YO played in the pool. First he played with E and then, while she watched, he played with two girls who had arrived with a beach ball. It was interesting to see them this morning and realize that they were probably Mennonites. Interesting to think about the two Mennonite girls and the boy with two moms playing together without other "stuff" interfering.
This morning, Thursday, we got up and had planned to visit Hopewell Rocks. If you've ever seen a tourism photo from New Brunswick, you've seen Hopewell Rocks. Well, it started raining and we decided to come to Fredericton where we knew that we could visit Science East and remain dry! We arrived before noon and were able to check into our room. Yea! After a few moments to unload, etc., we went for a drive around town, drove past the apartment we might view, and went to Science East. It's a great little science museum for kids. What I found interesting was the fact that up until 1996 it was still the jail. They've kept the basement as a jail museum - that was interesting. Hangings were done as recently as 1957! I had no idea.
Afterwards we drove around UNB and then across the river to Marysville. It was still really gloomy with drizzle every now and again. Unfortunately it's supposed to stay this way through the weekend, but Halifax looks to be the same. I don't mind the gray, but I don't like driving in the rain, especially when I'm trying to navigate my way around a new place.
I'm not sure what we're doing tomorrow - the skies will decide that for us! More as it happens!
03 July 2007
Nova Scotia
Wow, it's Tuesday and I haven't been able to post anything! This will have to be brief, but...
We arrived around 2 pm on Saturday. With the exception of 6YO getting sick, again, all went well with the flights, etc. As we were descending to the Halifax airport I was really surprised to see so much greenery. I knew that the airport was outside the city a bit, but this looked like wilderness! It was gorgeous. We got our rental car, found the hotel, and walked down to the waterfront. Perfect temperature, perfect weather, perfect city...! I'll skip all the details (e.g., fabulous seafood) in the interest of time. If I can I'll add more detail later.
On Sunday - Canada Day! - we got up and drove to Peggy's Cove, Mahone Bay, and Lunenburg. If you've ever seen a photo of the Nova Scotia shore you've no doubt seen photos of this area. It is as impressive as you would expect. 6YO was in seventh heaven running around the rocks at Peggy's Cove. I'll try to post pictures another time. We had a great lunch along the water - more seafood - in Lunenburg and then made our way back to Halifax. That evening we attended the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo which was different, but wonderful. Hopefully more on that another time, too. It got out around 9:55 pm and, as we were walking the few blocks back to the hotel we could see the Canada Day fireworks over the harbour begin. Turned out that the hotel had left the rooftop patio open late so we hurried to the roof and watched the rest of them. This was our first full 24 hours as permanent residents in Canada - when we landed we weren't there 24 hours - what an incredibly wonderful Canada Day!
On Monday morning we took the Theodore Tugboat cruise around the harbour, had lunch, and then started for Port Williams. We stopped briefly in Windsor, one of the places that claims to be the birthplace of hockey, visited Fort Edward, and got on the road again. We stopped again in Wolfville, home of Acadia University, and then made for Port Williams. On the way we stopped at a little farm market and picked up warm shortcake biscuits, strawberries, and whipping cream for our hosts - and a few other treats, too. By about 5 pm we arrived in Port Williams at the home of C, A, E, and L, a family that has already made the move from Minnesota to Canada. 6YO was having the time of his life - actually running around in a yard with trees, etc., not being "observed," and... finding snails, and more snails! We later had a nice dinner/visit and turned in for the night. Whew!
This morning we went down to Chester Basin/Mahone Bay where they keep their sailboat, which is getting its final prep to be put back in the water. 6YO, who is quite taken with L, the 10YO, had an absolute blast hanging out at the docks, finding rocks, shells, watching the fish, etc. After getting back the three of us took a short drive to Kingsport to drive by the vacation home of a friend from the UK. We spent a few minutes at the beach across the street - again 6YO was in heaven. Then we drive up to the Look Off where we could see great stretches of the Annapolis Valley. As you've seen me write before, I'm not even going to try to describe how beautiful it all is. Just take my word for it.
We all went for a delightful dinner in Kentville - yes, more seafood - and then came back to the house. 6YO and P are asleep and I decided to take just a few minutes to post something! Tomorrow we're going to Moncton, NB - hopefully via Shediac, NB which opens its annual lobster festival tomorrow. We'll see how the time and weather go...
So, yes, Nova Scotia is just as beautiful as you've ever heard. Green, green, green and we've had very good weather. A few showers here and there, but mostly blue skies, white clouds, and perfect temperatures. The next few days should be a little slower so hopefully I'll be able to post something with a little more depth. But, at least you know we're here and having a great time!
On to New Brunswick!
We arrived around 2 pm on Saturday. With the exception of 6YO getting sick, again, all went well with the flights, etc. As we were descending to the Halifax airport I was really surprised to see so much greenery. I knew that the airport was outside the city a bit, but this looked like wilderness! It was gorgeous. We got our rental car, found the hotel, and walked down to the waterfront. Perfect temperature, perfect weather, perfect city...! I'll skip all the details (e.g., fabulous seafood) in the interest of time. If I can I'll add more detail later.
On Sunday - Canada Day! - we got up and drove to Peggy's Cove, Mahone Bay, and Lunenburg. If you've ever seen a photo of the Nova Scotia shore you've no doubt seen photos of this area. It is as impressive as you would expect. 6YO was in seventh heaven running around the rocks at Peggy's Cove. I'll try to post pictures another time. We had a great lunch along the water - more seafood - in Lunenburg and then made our way back to Halifax. That evening we attended the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo which was different, but wonderful. Hopefully more on that another time, too. It got out around 9:55 pm and, as we were walking the few blocks back to the hotel we could see the Canada Day fireworks over the harbour begin. Turned out that the hotel had left the rooftop patio open late so we hurried to the roof and watched the rest of them. This was our first full 24 hours as permanent residents in Canada - when we landed we weren't there 24 hours - what an incredibly wonderful Canada Day!
On Monday morning we took the Theodore Tugboat cruise around the harbour, had lunch, and then started for Port Williams. We stopped briefly in Windsor, one of the places that claims to be the birthplace of hockey, visited Fort Edward, and got on the road again. We stopped again in Wolfville, home of Acadia University, and then made for Port Williams. On the way we stopped at a little farm market and picked up warm shortcake biscuits, strawberries, and whipping cream for our hosts - and a few other treats, too. By about 5 pm we arrived in Port Williams at the home of C, A, E, and L, a family that has already made the move from Minnesota to Canada. 6YO was having the time of his life - actually running around in a yard with trees, etc., not being "observed," and... finding snails, and more snails! We later had a nice dinner/visit and turned in for the night. Whew!
This morning we went down to Chester Basin/Mahone Bay where they keep their sailboat, which is getting its final prep to be put back in the water. 6YO, who is quite taken with L, the 10YO, had an absolute blast hanging out at the docks, finding rocks, shells, watching the fish, etc. After getting back the three of us took a short drive to Kingsport to drive by the vacation home of a friend from the UK. We spent a few minutes at the beach across the street - again 6YO was in heaven. Then we drive up to the Look Off where we could see great stretches of the Annapolis Valley. As you've seen me write before, I'm not even going to try to describe how beautiful it all is. Just take my word for it.
We all went for a delightful dinner in Kentville - yes, more seafood - and then came back to the house. 6YO and P are asleep and I decided to take just a few minutes to post something! Tomorrow we're going to Moncton, NB - hopefully via Shediac, NB which opens its annual lobster festival tomorrow. We'll see how the time and weather go...
So, yes, Nova Scotia is just as beautiful as you've ever heard. Green, green, green and we've had very good weather. A few showers here and there, but mostly blue skies, white clouds, and perfect temperatures. The next few days should be a little slower so hopefully I'll be able to post something with a little more depth. But, at least you know we're here and having a great time!
On to New Brunswick!
19 June 2007
15/16 June 2007
I wrote this first bit on Friday, but, since returning on Saturday evening have been playing catch-up.
Greetings from the Hotel Ibis at the Luxembourg airport! I was up at 06.00 this morning, getting ready. We got on the road by 09.00 and headed to Luxembourg. Unfortunately when we arrived it was drizzling. We parked at the train station – where there’s a tourist info counter – and started walking, but since the rain was picking up N & N decided to drive around and see what they could as they head toward Amsterdam. I do hope they managed to drive over to the old area – about two minutes away – as it is really spectacular. So, we parted ways. I walked up to the center of town and almost immediately found one of the stores I had identified as carrying the brand of bag I was looking to get, Freitag. So, my big souvenir was a messenger bag for more than I should have spent. They are made from recycled truck tarpaulins, etc. Then I found a place to get another "gift for P to be revealed" and then picked up a couple of Diego books in French for 6YO. I really have no more room until I get to Amsterdam and have the other bag out. I then got a takeaway baguette with brie, lettuce, and tomato that was wonderful! The brie is just so much better here. I decided that I would take one of the sightseeing bus tours because I was tired and it’s a good way to get a quick overview. Although I was glad to have seen the International Court of Justice, the rest turned out to be a bit of a waste as we had driven in on almost the exact same route! After that I stopped and got myself an éclair – which I am eating right now. Yum! I think I lost a couple of pounds in Sweden and gained them back this week! I caught the city bus back to the airport and checked in to the hotel. I just discovered that I have a tub – maybe I’ll take my first bath since leaving home!
On Saturday I woke up at 03.30, though I didn't have to get up until 04.00. I was at the airport by 04.30 for my 06.25 flight. I arrived in Amsterdam just before 09.00 and was soon on the train to Centraal Station. I went to two bookstores, Athaeneum and Waterstones, for more "the gift to be revealed" and then to the grocery store, Albert Heijn. As promised, I filled my extra bag with cheese, biscuits, chocolate, etc. to bring home. I returned to the airport around 12.30 and boarded the plane around 14.30. We left around 15.25 and at 17.30, or a few minutes before, arrived in the Twin Cities. I didn't really sleep on the plane; I watched three movies. Wild Hogs was brain candy, but I highly recommend both The Lives of Others and The Namesake.
Tuesday, 19 June: As I said, I've been playing "catch-up," getting organized, etc. BTW, the "gifts to be revealed" were copies of Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone/Sorcerer's Stone (i.e., Volume I) in German, Swedish, French, Dutch, and the Bloomsburg adult jacket edition. That's it for my European jaunt. Stay tuned for 30 June - 12 July when we visit the Maritimes!
Greetings from the Hotel Ibis at the Luxembourg airport! I was up at 06.00 this morning, getting ready. We got on the road by 09.00 and headed to Luxembourg. Unfortunately when we arrived it was drizzling. We parked at the train station – where there’s a tourist info counter – and started walking, but since the rain was picking up N & N decided to drive around and see what they could as they head toward Amsterdam. I do hope they managed to drive over to the old area – about two minutes away – as it is really spectacular. So, we parted ways. I walked up to the center of town and almost immediately found one of the stores I had identified as carrying the brand of bag I was looking to get, Freitag. So, my big souvenir was a messenger bag for more than I should have spent. They are made from recycled truck tarpaulins, etc. Then I found a place to get another "gift for P to be revealed" and then picked up a couple of Diego books in French for 6YO. I really have no more room until I get to Amsterdam and have the other bag out. I then got a takeaway baguette with brie, lettuce, and tomato that was wonderful! The brie is just so much better here. I decided that I would take one of the sightseeing bus tours because I was tired and it’s a good way to get a quick overview. Although I was glad to have seen the International Court of Justice, the rest turned out to be a bit of a waste as we had driven in on almost the exact same route! After that I stopped and got myself an éclair – which I am eating right now. Yum! I think I lost a couple of pounds in Sweden and gained them back this week! I caught the city bus back to the airport and checked in to the hotel. I just discovered that I have a tub – maybe I’ll take my first bath since leaving home!
On Saturday I woke up at 03.30, though I didn't have to get up until 04.00. I was at the airport by 04.30 for my 06.25 flight. I arrived in Amsterdam just before 09.00 and was soon on the train to Centraal Station. I went to two bookstores, Athaeneum and Waterstones, for more "the gift to be revealed" and then to the grocery store, Albert Heijn. As promised, I filled my extra bag with cheese, biscuits, chocolate, etc. to bring home. I returned to the airport around 12.30 and boarded the plane around 14.30. We left around 15.25 and at 17.30, or a few minutes before, arrived in the Twin Cities. I didn't really sleep on the plane; I watched three movies. Wild Hogs was brain candy, but I highly recommend both The Lives of Others and The Namesake.
Tuesday, 19 June: As I said, I've been playing "catch-up," getting organized, etc. BTW, the "gifts to be revealed" were copies of Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone/Sorcerer's Stone (i.e., Volume I) in German, Swedish, French, Dutch, and the Bloomsburg adult jacket edition. That's it for my European jaunt. Stay tuned for 30 June - 12 July when we visit the Maritimes!
13 June 2007
13 June 2007
So, it's Wednesday morning here...
Last night I had dinner with my colleague, N, and his partner and then we went to the home of the department chair. As we approached the little village in which he lives we were on a hill looking out across the valley. It was just beautiful. Then, we found his home on a cul-de-sac, nestled among a lot of greenery. We sat out on a deck, trees all around. We had been told to come for a drink, not dinner. But, his partner brought out a platter of several cheeses, a platter of several meats, a platter of peppers, feta, etc., and a platter of bread. And, the local wine was chilling. We were really full from our dinner, but found a way to eat something! They had been in Paris over the weekend and they had brought the Brie, Camembert, and several of the meats back with them. His partner was born and raised in East Germany. They met in the late 1980s and didn't really think they'd be able to live together. But, a couple of years later the wall came down and Germany was reunified. It was really interesting to chat with them. He, by the way, is the author/editor of this book. Very cool, indeed. We begged off around 22.45 and made our way back "home."
This morning I'm meeting with the person who administers their study abroad programs. Then, N and I have to meet to discuss tomorrow's final class meeting. I think we're also going to try to go downtown for lunch and then I hope to, finally, go to the Karl Marx House. Tomorrow is our last day in Trier. Friday morning my colleague and his partner will drive me to Luxembourg where I'll spend the day/night. My flight Saturday leaves at 06.25 so I thought it would be nice to be right there. This has been the trip of early flights! I'm looking forward to spending the day in Luxembourg City. Lovely is the word that comes to mind when I want to describe it. Other cities, e.g., Amsterdam, are cool, fun, fascinating, but I wouldn't say "lovely." Luxembourg City is lovely. And, I really enjoy being around the French language where I can pick up a lot more of what is being said/written! Anyway, that's the latest. Hope all is well with you wherever you are!
Last night I had dinner with my colleague, N, and his partner and then we went to the home of the department chair. As we approached the little village in which he lives we were on a hill looking out across the valley. It was just beautiful. Then, we found his home on a cul-de-sac, nestled among a lot of greenery. We sat out on a deck, trees all around. We had been told to come for a drink, not dinner. But, his partner brought out a platter of several cheeses, a platter of several meats, a platter of peppers, feta, etc., and a platter of bread. And, the local wine was chilling. We were really full from our dinner, but found a way to eat something! They had been in Paris over the weekend and they had brought the Brie, Camembert, and several of the meats back with them. His partner was born and raised in East Germany. They met in the late 1980s and didn't really think they'd be able to live together. But, a couple of years later the wall came down and Germany was reunified. It was really interesting to chat with them. He, by the way, is the author/editor of this book. Very cool, indeed. We begged off around 22.45 and made our way back "home."
This morning I'm meeting with the person who administers their study abroad programs. Then, N and I have to meet to discuss tomorrow's final class meeting. I think we're also going to try to go downtown for lunch and then I hope to, finally, go to the Karl Marx House. Tomorrow is our last day in Trier. Friday morning my colleague and his partner will drive me to Luxembourg where I'll spend the day/night. My flight Saturday leaves at 06.25 so I thought it would be nice to be right there. This has been the trip of early flights! I'm looking forward to spending the day in Luxembourg City. Lovely is the word that comes to mind when I want to describe it. Other cities, e.g., Amsterdam, are cool, fun, fascinating, but I wouldn't say "lovely." Luxembourg City is lovely. And, I really enjoy being around the French language where I can pick up a lot more of what is being said/written! Anyway, that's the latest. Hope all is well with you wherever you are!
Back in Germany
I wrote this on Monday, 11 June, but haven't had time and Internet access in the same moment. That is, I either had time and no access or access, but no time! It's now Wednesday morning and I've got both!
I’m back in Trier. It’s 21.00 on Monday evening. Last night, still in Sweden, I fell asleep around 19.00. Even though I was exhausted, I had thought about taking a stroll around Nyköping, but it started raining. It seemed a shame to actually stay someplace and see nothing more than the hotel room and bus terminal. But, I went to sleep. Unfortunately, I woke up around 01.00 and really couldn’t get back to sleep. At 02.00 I decided it was futile and did some emailing, got ready, etc. Let me tell you – that was something to negotiate while being quiet, what with sliding the basin and all! At 04.00 I slipped quietly into the breakfast room for a few pieces of Wasa crisp bread and cheese and some hot chocolate. Then, off I went to catch the 04.35 bus. One advantage to the sunrise/sunset times is that I walked out in full daylight. I saw a couple of blocks of what looked like a main shopping area, but that was it. Fifteen minutes later I was at the airport. I have to say, I’ve never arrived at an airport before security was even open!
I checked in and was given a priority boarding pass. Now, I’m not sure whether I paid for it when I bought the ticket – remember, discount airline, you pay for each little amenity – or whether he just gave it to me. I was the first to check in in person. Who knows! I may have said this before, but I couldn’t check in online because I don’t have an EU passport or identity card. I managed to find some snacks that allowed me to spend exactly every piece of change. Unlike some airports there were no charity collection barrels or some such in which to leave your extra change.
And hour and a half later I boarded and was able to get a bulkhead seat. Score! And, a really nice older Swedish guy sat next to me. He has lived in Switzerland for 37 years, but comes “home” two or three times a year. He said that remaining in Switzerland had limited his career opportunities, but he stayed because of the excellent sport (e.g., skiing) community. We had a nice chat about Sweden, family policies, etc.
We arrived back at Frankfurt-Hahn twenty minutes early. While I’m always glad to be back on terra firma, it just meant an extra twenty minutes until the bus, or almost three hours. I changed in my remaining kroner and found out – first time ever – that they would have taken change! Oh, well, the oatmeal cookie I bought with my last few coins was good. I basically killed the time wandering around, sitting in the sun, etc. Finally, the bus to Trier arrived and we departed. We were about 12 km outside Trier when the driver pulled over and the driver from Friday, having parked behind us, came up to the bus. With no comment whatsoever they switched the baggage and we realized that we were to change to the other bus. So, we did. A few minutes later we were deposited at the Trier Hauptbahnhof.
I spent the next several hours shopping in Trier – another useless (to be revealed later) gift for P and, finally, something for myself. I bought a 40 cm x 80 cm (16” x 32”) pillow and pillow case. I love German linens and the lack of adequate pillow in my room was making me miserable. I had a schnitzel for lunch and, for the first time, took the bus back up to the university, or Uni as they call it here. We say “the U,” they say “Uni.”
I dropped my stuff off at my room and went over to, hopefully, check email and do some more prep for tomorrow’s class. Alas, I couldn’t get a connection. Well, it said I was connected, but no applications would open. I went to use the lab and it “recognized” me as my sponsor (a senior administrator) and started installing all kinds of stuff. Yikes! I tried to quit everything and then gave up.
I went to the grocery store, got back to the room, put things away, had curry wurst for a late supper, showered, and here I am. Since I hadn’t been able to email, I also called P from my cell phone – to the tune of about USD$3.62 a minute – to let her know I had returned. Just to top off my day, I just said I was making it quick and that I was back, and the call was one minute and two seconds, or, of course, two minutes. Can you tell I’m a little frustrated?
Well, one more observation about Sweden that some of you will love. Dogs seem to be welcome just about everywhere! I saw them in shops, in cafes, and on the Tunnelbana where there’s a sticker on the doors indicating that dogs are permitted. On the bus this morning there was a sign designating that dogs were welcome behind the middle door, but not in front of it. Cool beans.
Well, I’ve been up 19 hours – even though it’s light out and there are some folks outside chatting I’m hoping I can sleep. Tomorrow I teach from 12.00-16.00 and I have to do some prep in the morning.
By the way, just for the curious – the “kö” in Nyköping is pronounced “sh” so it’s something like Ny-show-ping. And I thought Dutch was difficult!
Cheers!
I’m back in Trier. It’s 21.00 on Monday evening. Last night, still in Sweden, I fell asleep around 19.00. Even though I was exhausted, I had thought about taking a stroll around Nyköping, but it started raining. It seemed a shame to actually stay someplace and see nothing more than the hotel room and bus terminal. But, I went to sleep. Unfortunately, I woke up around 01.00 and really couldn’t get back to sleep. At 02.00 I decided it was futile and did some emailing, got ready, etc. Let me tell you – that was something to negotiate while being quiet, what with sliding the basin and all! At 04.00 I slipped quietly into the breakfast room for a few pieces of Wasa crisp bread and cheese and some hot chocolate. Then, off I went to catch the 04.35 bus. One advantage to the sunrise/sunset times is that I walked out in full daylight. I saw a couple of blocks of what looked like a main shopping area, but that was it. Fifteen minutes later I was at the airport. I have to say, I’ve never arrived at an airport before security was even open!
I checked in and was given a priority boarding pass. Now, I’m not sure whether I paid for it when I bought the ticket – remember, discount airline, you pay for each little amenity – or whether he just gave it to me. I was the first to check in in person. Who knows! I may have said this before, but I couldn’t check in online because I don’t have an EU passport or identity card. I managed to find some snacks that allowed me to spend exactly every piece of change. Unlike some airports there were no charity collection barrels or some such in which to leave your extra change.
And hour and a half later I boarded and was able to get a bulkhead seat. Score! And, a really nice older Swedish guy sat next to me. He has lived in Switzerland for 37 years, but comes “home” two or three times a year. He said that remaining in Switzerland had limited his career opportunities, but he stayed because of the excellent sport (e.g., skiing) community. We had a nice chat about Sweden, family policies, etc.
We arrived back at Frankfurt-Hahn twenty minutes early. While I’m always glad to be back on terra firma, it just meant an extra twenty minutes until the bus, or almost three hours. I changed in my remaining kroner and found out – first time ever – that they would have taken change! Oh, well, the oatmeal cookie I bought with my last few coins was good. I basically killed the time wandering around, sitting in the sun, etc. Finally, the bus to Trier arrived and we departed. We were about 12 km outside Trier when the driver pulled over and the driver from Friday, having parked behind us, came up to the bus. With no comment whatsoever they switched the baggage and we realized that we were to change to the other bus. So, we did. A few minutes later we were deposited at the Trier Hauptbahnhof.
I spent the next several hours shopping in Trier – another useless (to be revealed later) gift for P and, finally, something for myself. I bought a 40 cm x 80 cm (16” x 32”) pillow and pillow case. I love German linens and the lack of adequate pillow in my room was making me miserable. I had a schnitzel for lunch and, for the first time, took the bus back up to the university, or Uni as they call it here. We say “the U,” they say “Uni.”
I dropped my stuff off at my room and went over to, hopefully, check email and do some more prep for tomorrow’s class. Alas, I couldn’t get a connection. Well, it said I was connected, but no applications would open. I went to use the lab and it “recognized” me as my sponsor (a senior administrator) and started installing all kinds of stuff. Yikes! I tried to quit everything and then gave up.
I went to the grocery store, got back to the room, put things away, had curry wurst for a late supper, showered, and here I am. Since I hadn’t been able to email, I also called P from my cell phone – to the tune of about USD$3.62 a minute – to let her know I had returned. Just to top off my day, I just said I was making it quick and that I was back, and the call was one minute and two seconds, or, of course, two minutes. Can you tell I’m a little frustrated?
Well, one more observation about Sweden that some of you will love. Dogs seem to be welcome just about everywhere! I saw them in shops, in cafes, and on the Tunnelbana where there’s a sticker on the doors indicating that dogs are permitted. On the bus this morning there was a sign designating that dogs were welcome behind the middle door, but not in front of it. Cool beans.
Well, I’ve been up 19 hours – even though it’s light out and there are some folks outside chatting I’m hoping I can sleep. Tomorrow I teach from 12.00-16.00 and I have to do some prep in the morning.
By the way, just for the curious – the “kö” in Nyköping is pronounced “sh” so it’s something like Ny-show-ping. And I thought Dutch was difficult!
Cheers!
10 June 2007
10 June 2007
I'm now in Nykoping, Sweden, a small town about 100 km outside of Stockholm. Since my flight leaves at 7 am I decided to book a room closer to the airport. I don't even recall if it would have been possible to get the bus from the city that early!
This morning, after another nice breakfast, I went to the Nobel Museum. I could have stayed much longer watching all the mini-films, but after about 2 hours I decided it was time for lunch. It's a small museum and has only been opened since 2001, but it is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.
Then I made my way to the City Terminal and found the gate for the 14.30 bus to Skavsta airport. I had a hard time staying awake on the bus! We got to the airport around 15.50. I then found the local bus. The bus driver was really nice and dropped me off at (almost) the right place.
I got here to the Hotel Wiktoria and checked in and, yes, they have wireless. Woo-hoo. But, let me tell you about this room. I had read about this in an on-line review and couldn't quite envision it. But, the toilet, sink, and shower are all one. You slide the basin to the side when using the shower. I'm not kidding! The room has a fridge, tv, sofa, table, etc., but it's almost like being in a cruise ship or train cabin. But, the good news is that they provide drinks and sandwiches in the evening. Additionally, even though I have to leave at 05.00 I can still get breakfast. And, unlike Stockholm where I was on a really busy street, it is very, very quiet.
Well, just thought that since I had an opportunity I'd post an update. Oh, my accomplishment of the day was this. Sitting on the Tunnelbana, waiting for it to pull away, watching the electronic sign that tells you where you're going, the next stop, etc., I knew that it was wrong, not me! In two days I managed to get quite comfortable with getting around, but I think if I stayed a few more days I'd have really settled in. I also found that, with a tiny bit of Dutch and German - and, of course, English - I was able to read a fair amount of signs. Not much, but enough.
I'm really glad I took the opportunity to come up this way and see something new. I had really wanted to go back to Paris - especially since I can hobble along in fractured French - but I felt compelled to visit a place I'd never been and would be less likely to have the opportunity to visit in the future. Another good thing is that it's really the first time I've traveled to a new non-English speaking country since about 1980. That is, in recent years I've been to the Netherlands, Belgium, France, and Germany, but I'd been to them before and have "a sense of things." Since I work with students who are returning from spending a semester abroad it's also been a nice reminder of the learning curve and "culture shock" of arriving in a new country where you understand so little.
I guess that's it - more as it happens!
This morning, after another nice breakfast, I went to the Nobel Museum. I could have stayed much longer watching all the mini-films, but after about 2 hours I decided it was time for lunch. It's a small museum and has only been opened since 2001, but it is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.
Then I made my way to the City Terminal and found the gate for the 14.30 bus to Skavsta airport. I had a hard time staying awake on the bus! We got to the airport around 15.50. I then found the local bus. The bus driver was really nice and dropped me off at (almost) the right place.
I got here to the Hotel Wiktoria and checked in and, yes, they have wireless. Woo-hoo. But, let me tell you about this room. I had read about this in an on-line review and couldn't quite envision it. But, the toilet, sink, and shower are all one. You slide the basin to the side when using the shower. I'm not kidding! The room has a fridge, tv, sofa, table, etc., but it's almost like being in a cruise ship or train cabin. But, the good news is that they provide drinks and sandwiches in the evening. Additionally, even though I have to leave at 05.00 I can still get breakfast. And, unlike Stockholm where I was on a really busy street, it is very, very quiet.
Well, just thought that since I had an opportunity I'd post an update. Oh, my accomplishment of the day was this. Sitting on the Tunnelbana, waiting for it to pull away, watching the electronic sign that tells you where you're going, the next stop, etc., I knew that it was wrong, not me! In two days I managed to get quite comfortable with getting around, but I think if I stayed a few more days I'd have really settled in. I also found that, with a tiny bit of Dutch and German - and, of course, English - I was able to read a fair amount of signs. Not much, but enough.
I'm really glad I took the opportunity to come up this way and see something new. I had really wanted to go back to Paris - especially since I can hobble along in fractured French - but I felt compelled to visit a place I'd never been and would be less likely to have the opportunity to visit in the future. Another good thing is that it's really the first time I've traveled to a new non-English speaking country since about 1980. That is, in recent years I've been to the Netherlands, Belgium, France, and Germany, but I'd been to them before and have "a sense of things." Since I work with students who are returning from spending a semester abroad it's also been a nice reminder of the learning curve and "culture shock" of arriving in a new country where you understand so little.
I guess that's it - more as it happens!
09 June 2007
9 June 2007
I forgot to mention this... When I arrived yesterday, there were trucks – picture flatbed trucks with sides about chest high on the beds – filled with teenagers with beer and tree branches driving through the city center, blaring music and, well, looking the most like a Pride float of anything I’ve seen outside of a Pride parade. Turns out that there are huge celebrations for high school graduation! The families come out to stand and cheer, many carrying posters with a photo of their son/daughter as a child. I am not kidding when I say that you could smell the beer in the trucks while standing on the sidewalk.
Other miscellaneous thoughts/observations…
The Tunnelbana/subway has posters for a campaign against Chlamydia in which fingers with condoms on them are pictured. That’s one of those, “Won’t see this in the US moments.” Somewhere else – I don’t recall if it was here or Germany – there was a poster with condoms on fruits and veggies.
One of the guidebooks said that it is very unusual for the Swedish to acknowledge a stranger in public; you know, a smile or some such. I think they’re right.
On the “cool” list – picture, to the side of a wide stairway (e.g., in the T-bana), a section of stairs 8"-10” wide with a flat part on either side. I can’t really describe it; maybe you’ve seen it. It enables someone to walk up the stairs while pushing a stroller or bike at the same time. I’ve seen this once in the US, in a relatively obscure part of a park in Minneapolis. Very cool.
Speaking of strollers – I saw more people with strollers – with children in them – on escalators today than I think I’ve seen in all my years in the US. And the elevators are a lot more accessible here, too. ??
Other things I love – the light flush/heavy flush option on toilets. What I don’t love – paying 5 kroner – about 75 cents – to use the bathroom at the mall. I don’t mind pay toilets at all – they tend to be clean – but 75 cents seems a bit much.
The transit system here is truly exceptional. You hear that, but, my, it is really true. Coming from the Twin Cities where many people can't imagine why anyone would want to spend more on, not improving, but providing mass transit...
Where are the homeless? I did some quick research and Stockholm does have a homeless population. This is the only city of its size I've ever been in where I've not encountered a single person who appeared homeless or was asking for money. Not one single person - not near the T-bana, not in the parks, nothing. I don't know if that's a good thing or bad. The "homeless count" suggests that the percentage is so small its not evident. On the other hand, some cities have such a hostile approach to homelessness that they keep them hidden. I'd like to know more about this.
It reminds me of something I didn't post about - my ride to the airport. I was the only passenger and the driver was a - I'm guessing - thirty-something fellow who had been born in El Paso to a GI father and a German mother. His brother - a Marine - and sister both live in the US. He wants nothing of it. He said, "Life is too hard in the States," and described how poorly he would be paid, etc. I was thinking about that here - the Swedish "safety net" is supposed to be pretty amazing. And, from Wikipedia - though I've seen it elsewhere - "all working parents are entitled to 16 months' paid leave per child, the cost being shared between employer and State. To encourage greater paternal involvement in child-rearing, a minimum of 3 months out of the 18 is required to be used by the "minority" parent, in practice usually the father, and some Swedish political parties on the Left argue for legislation to oblige families to divide the 18 months equally between both parents."
Why is it I keep thinking about how backward the US is on so many issues...?
Okay, today’s report, other than the above –
I got up and made a pilgrimage - by bus, tram, train, and bus – to the Kungens Kurva IKEA. Yes, it's true. L-girl and AAA – I thought of you both! I hadn’t decided whether I was really going to do it or not, but decided to go for it. It was huge, huge, huge and, unlike Amsterdam, actually had stuff that I’ve not seen at home. All I bought was a stuffed animal as a gift for 6YO who has been pestering me for one. I'm traveling with one backpack this weekend so I'm keeping the purchases light!
Then I took a bus and train back to the city center and took the ferry over to the Vasa Museum. This is supposed to be one of the top attractions here. I almost skipped it because I just wasn’t that interested. I am so glad I didn’t. It was just fascinating. In 1628, the ship sank on its first voyage, right in the harbor. In 1961 it was raised and painstakingly restored. It was just incredible to see both the ship and the video about the restoration.
I wandered around for a while, watching some of the Stockholm Marathon. It was way too hot for a marathon, if you ask me. They didn’t.
Later in the afternoon I took the Royal Canal Tour. Tours like these always sound so hokey, but I have found that they are one of the very best ways to get a quick overview of a large city. And it was nice and cool on the boat.
Then, I found – you won’t believe it – a food court, Kungshallen. It had been listed in Lonely Planet as a great place to grab a bite. Since I’m alone it’s hardly worth taking a leisurely meal with wait staff. I had some wonderful chicken tikka masala. This, so I hear, is the #1 dish in London. So, I waited for Stockholm.
That’s about it. Skype has been very unreliable – don’t know if it’s this connection or what – so P and I set up gmail chat which was great. So, that’s my day. Tomorrow, after a leisurely morning, I have to take the bus back to Skavsta airport then take the city bus into Nykoping where I am spending the night because my flight leaves at 07.00 on Monday morning. Once I get back to Frankfurt-Hahn, the bus to Trier doesn’t leave for 2 and a half hours. I should get back to campus around 14.00. I don’t think I’ll have any Internet access for the interim, so, that’s it for now!
Oh, one more thing – last night at 23.00 there was still light in the sky. At 4.00 it was light! I checked and, tonight, sunset is 22.00. Sunrise tomorrow is 03.34.
Updated Sunday morning: I woke up at 04.02. Fortunately, I was able to go back to sleep! :-)
Other miscellaneous thoughts/observations…
The Tunnelbana/subway has posters for a campaign against Chlamydia in which fingers with condoms on them are pictured. That’s one of those, “Won’t see this in the US moments.” Somewhere else – I don’t recall if it was here or Germany – there was a poster with condoms on fruits and veggies.
One of the guidebooks said that it is very unusual for the Swedish to acknowledge a stranger in public; you know, a smile or some such. I think they’re right.
On the “cool” list – picture, to the side of a wide stairway (e.g., in the T-bana), a section of stairs 8"-10” wide with a flat part on either side. I can’t really describe it; maybe you’ve seen it. It enables someone to walk up the stairs while pushing a stroller or bike at the same time. I’ve seen this once in the US, in a relatively obscure part of a park in Minneapolis. Very cool.
Speaking of strollers – I saw more people with strollers – with children in them – on escalators today than I think I’ve seen in all my years in the US. And the elevators are a lot more accessible here, too. ??
Other things I love – the light flush/heavy flush option on toilets. What I don’t love – paying 5 kroner – about 75 cents – to use the bathroom at the mall. I don’t mind pay toilets at all – they tend to be clean – but 75 cents seems a bit much.
The transit system here is truly exceptional. You hear that, but, my, it is really true. Coming from the Twin Cities where many people can't imagine why anyone would want to spend more on, not improving, but providing mass transit...
Where are the homeless? I did some quick research and Stockholm does have a homeless population. This is the only city of its size I've ever been in where I've not encountered a single person who appeared homeless or was asking for money. Not one single person - not near the T-bana, not in the parks, nothing. I don't know if that's a good thing or bad. The "homeless count" suggests that the percentage is so small its not evident. On the other hand, some cities have such a hostile approach to homelessness that they keep them hidden. I'd like to know more about this.
It reminds me of something I didn't post about - my ride to the airport. I was the only passenger and the driver was a - I'm guessing - thirty-something fellow who had been born in El Paso to a GI father and a German mother. His brother - a Marine - and sister both live in the US. He wants nothing of it. He said, "Life is too hard in the States," and described how poorly he would be paid, etc. I was thinking about that here - the Swedish "safety net" is supposed to be pretty amazing. And, from Wikipedia - though I've seen it elsewhere - "all working parents are entitled to 16 months' paid leave per child, the cost being shared between employer and State. To encourage greater paternal involvement in child-rearing, a minimum of 3 months out of the 18 is required to be used by the "minority" parent, in practice usually the father, and some Swedish political parties on the Left argue for legislation to oblige families to divide the 18 months equally between both parents."
Why is it I keep thinking about how backward the US is on so many issues...?
Okay, today’s report, other than the above –
I got up and made a pilgrimage - by bus, tram, train, and bus – to the Kungens Kurva IKEA. Yes, it's true. L-girl and AAA – I thought of you both! I hadn’t decided whether I was really going to do it or not, but decided to go for it. It was huge, huge, huge and, unlike Amsterdam, actually had stuff that I’ve not seen at home. All I bought was a stuffed animal as a gift for 6YO who has been pestering me for one. I'm traveling with one backpack this weekend so I'm keeping the purchases light!
Then I took a bus and train back to the city center and took the ferry over to the Vasa Museum. This is supposed to be one of the top attractions here. I almost skipped it because I just wasn’t that interested. I am so glad I didn’t. It was just fascinating. In 1628, the ship sank on its first voyage, right in the harbor. In 1961 it was raised and painstakingly restored. It was just incredible to see both the ship and the video about the restoration.
I wandered around for a while, watching some of the Stockholm Marathon. It was way too hot for a marathon, if you ask me. They didn’t.
Later in the afternoon I took the Royal Canal Tour. Tours like these always sound so hokey, but I have found that they are one of the very best ways to get a quick overview of a large city. And it was nice and cool on the boat.
Then, I found – you won’t believe it – a food court, Kungshallen. It had been listed in Lonely Planet as a great place to grab a bite. Since I’m alone it’s hardly worth taking a leisurely meal with wait staff. I had some wonderful chicken tikka masala. This, so I hear, is the #1 dish in London. So, I waited for Stockholm.
That’s about it. Skype has been very unreliable – don’t know if it’s this connection or what – so P and I set up gmail chat which was great. So, that’s my day. Tomorrow, after a leisurely morning, I have to take the bus back to Skavsta airport then take the city bus into Nykoping where I am spending the night because my flight leaves at 07.00 on Monday morning. Once I get back to Frankfurt-Hahn, the bus to Trier doesn’t leave for 2 and a half hours. I should get back to campus around 14.00. I don’t think I’ll have any Internet access for the interim, so, that’s it for now!
Oh, one more thing – last night at 23.00 there was still light in the sky. At 4.00 it was light! I checked and, tonight, sunset is 22.00. Sunrise tomorrow is 03.34.
Updated Sunday morning: I woke up at 04.02. Fortunately, I was able to go back to sleep! :-)
08 June 2007
8 June 2007
Writing at Frankfurt-Hahn Airport: So far, so good. Coming up to stay at the airport the night before was such a great idea. I got up and dressed and literally crossed the street to check in for my flight. I then went back to the hotel and had a delightful breakfast. Afterward, I was able to go back to my room, use the facilities, etc., grab my bag and come over to the airport where security was a breeze – and the agents so pleasant. I am now sitting at the gate waiting to board. Although my German hosts referred to this airport as “in no man’s land,” it’s just great. It’s small, yes, but that makes it easy to get around and it has lots of services.
I have wondered if I’m taking my life in my hands – more so than is usually the case with flying – by taking Ryan Air – a European no frills/discount airline, but all indicators are that it’s just fine. I’ll add a report after I actually fly! For those of you unfamiliar with them, I’m flying from Frankfurt-Hahn, about an hour from Frankfurt I’d guess, to Stockholm, round trip, for 74 euro, or about USD$100. The bus from and to Trier will have been 24 euro, no more than a cab ride in the city. I also have to take a bus from the regional airport near Stockholm to the city proper and it’s a bit more expensive, but, all in all, this is quite nice.
I should put in a plug for the hotel, too. B+B is a French chain that appears to be rapidly expanding into Germany. I checked in last night, stepped out of the elevator where the hallway lights got brighter because someone had entered the area - what a great environmental measure! - and accessed my room by using a code on the door keypad. It was, of course, small, but very nice. One of the things I love about traveling in Europe is the use of duvets. Then there’s the clean simplicity of things. Love it! As it turned out I didn’t sleep “great” as I had hoped – I never seem to do so the first night in a new space. And, being most familiar with hotels in major urban areas of the US, I think it probably bothered me a bit that there are no chains on the doors! But, then, I did once have someone be given the key to my room and walk in only to find me there! Anyway, at 41 euro this was a real find! And, I checked this morning and they have “family rooms” with one double bed and two singles for 59 euro. I’m already planning for when we can make the great European tour! Don’t know what year that might happen with all the other plans, but, we’ll see! I really want P to see Aachen, a small town not far from here and there’s a B+B hotel there, too! ;-)
I guess that’s it for now. We should begin boarding soon. More as it happens!
Friday evening update from my room in Stockholm-Bromma:
The flight was great. As a discount airline it’s one where you don’t get a seat assignment, but I scored an exit row. Very comfy. The flight was a little under 2 hours. We landed at Skavsta Airport, another great little “outside the city” airport. I got some kroner from a cash machine – Sweden declined to adopt the euro – and got a ticket for the bus to Stockholm City. At 199 kroner round trip, that’s USD$28.48 – call it $30 with what the bank will add – that means that my travel to Stockholm, including last night's hotel, ran about USD$215. Not bad. BTW, I'm mentioning all these costs for those who might be curious as to how cheaply you can actually do this.
The ride was about and hour and twenty minutes and I had trouble keeping my eyes open, but I thought I was silly to sleep, even if all I was missing was the countryside. When we arrived I – eventually! – found the tourist office where I was able to buy a transit pass. I had booked a hotel on the outskirts because a) it’s really inexpensive at about USD$61, and b) it’s one way to see more than the tourist center of downtown! I’m really getting my walking in though! I finally made it to the hotel and my great IKEA-like room where I was able to shower and cool off. I then headed back to the city center and wandered around Gamla Stan, or Old Town. I hadn’t had lunch and was starving! I’m not much for traditional Swedish food and I refused to patronize the McDonalds, Burger Kings, or Pizza Huts I had passed but I happened upon an Italian restaurant – always a favorite – and got a table. I was flipping through my Lonely Planet – Stockholm and, what a coincidence, the first thing I had tabbed was this restaurant! I had a great artichoke and mushroom pizza and a Coke Light. Yum. I wandered around a bit more, over some bridges, near Parliament and the Royal Palace, and back to T-Centralen. I took a different train this time so that I could connect to a bus that takes me right to the hotel. I had had enough walking!
So, that’s it for today. I feel like I know how to get around most of the areas I plan to visit. And, because I decided to bring my computer I was able to go to the transit site and get detailed instructions for getting from Point A to Point B. But, I’m exhausted. It’s after 21.00 and still very bright. I didn’t check, but I hear it gets dark around 22.00 or so. More as it happens!
I have wondered if I’m taking my life in my hands – more so than is usually the case with flying – by taking Ryan Air – a European no frills/discount airline, but all indicators are that it’s just fine. I’ll add a report after I actually fly! For those of you unfamiliar with them, I’m flying from Frankfurt-Hahn, about an hour from Frankfurt I’d guess, to Stockholm, round trip, for 74 euro, or about USD$100. The bus from and to Trier will have been 24 euro, no more than a cab ride in the city. I also have to take a bus from the regional airport near Stockholm to the city proper and it’s a bit more expensive, but, all in all, this is quite nice.
I should put in a plug for the hotel, too. B+B is a French chain that appears to be rapidly expanding into Germany. I checked in last night, stepped out of the elevator where the hallway lights got brighter because someone had entered the area - what a great environmental measure! - and accessed my room by using a code on the door keypad. It was, of course, small, but very nice. One of the things I love about traveling in Europe is the use of duvets. Then there’s the clean simplicity of things. Love it! As it turned out I didn’t sleep “great” as I had hoped – I never seem to do so the first night in a new space. And, being most familiar with hotels in major urban areas of the US, I think it probably bothered me a bit that there are no chains on the doors! But, then, I did once have someone be given the key to my room and walk in only to find me there! Anyway, at 41 euro this was a real find! And, I checked this morning and they have “family rooms” with one double bed and two singles for 59 euro. I’m already planning for when we can make the great European tour! Don’t know what year that might happen with all the other plans, but, we’ll see! I really want P to see Aachen, a small town not far from here and there’s a B+B hotel there, too! ;-)
I guess that’s it for now. We should begin boarding soon. More as it happens!
Friday evening update from my room in Stockholm-Bromma:
The flight was great. As a discount airline it’s one where you don’t get a seat assignment, but I scored an exit row. Very comfy. The flight was a little under 2 hours. We landed at Skavsta Airport, another great little “outside the city” airport. I got some kroner from a cash machine – Sweden declined to adopt the euro – and got a ticket for the bus to Stockholm City. At 199 kroner round trip, that’s USD$28.48 – call it $30 with what the bank will add – that means that my travel to Stockholm, including last night's hotel, ran about USD$215. Not bad. BTW, I'm mentioning all these costs for those who might be curious as to how cheaply you can actually do this.
The ride was about and hour and twenty minutes and I had trouble keeping my eyes open, but I thought I was silly to sleep, even if all I was missing was the countryside. When we arrived I – eventually! – found the tourist office where I was able to buy a transit pass. I had booked a hotel on the outskirts because a) it’s really inexpensive at about USD$61, and b) it’s one way to see more than the tourist center of downtown! I’m really getting my walking in though! I finally made it to the hotel and my great IKEA-like room where I was able to shower and cool off. I then headed back to the city center and wandered around Gamla Stan, or Old Town. I hadn’t had lunch and was starving! I’m not much for traditional Swedish food and I refused to patronize the McDonalds, Burger Kings, or Pizza Huts I had passed but I happened upon an Italian restaurant – always a favorite – and got a table. I was flipping through my Lonely Planet – Stockholm and, what a coincidence, the first thing I had tabbed was this restaurant! I had a great artichoke and mushroom pizza and a Coke Light. Yum. I wandered around a bit more, over some bridges, near Parliament and the Royal Palace, and back to T-Centralen. I took a different train this time so that I could connect to a bus that takes me right to the hotel. I had had enough walking!
So, that’s it for today. I feel like I know how to get around most of the areas I plan to visit. And, because I decided to bring my computer I was able to go to the transit site and get detailed instructions for getting from Point A to Point B. But, I’m exhausted. It’s after 21.00 and still very bright. I didn’t check, but I hear it gets dark around 22.00 or so. More as it happens!
07 June 2007
7 June 2007
Just thought I'd post a brief, "Hi, I'm fine," note. Here's the general recap - I left the US last Saturday evening, 2 June, and arrived in London on Sunday morning around 9.00. Made my way to Victoria Station and on to the bookstores of Charing Cross Road - via Westminster Abbey, the Horse Guards, Parliament, "Big Ben," Downing Street, and many theatres. I went to several bookstores (but not Borders) and hung out at the cafe of Foyles Bookshop where I was able to use Skype to call home. I love Skype. I then made my way back to Victoria Station - having been unsuccessful in finding an original Bloomsbury hardcover of the first Harry Potter book - and to the airport. Just as I had accidentally passed the morning's tourist spots, I found myself on the mall at Saint James's Park headed toward Buckingham Palace, quite unintentionally. It was weird to see the very spot where I had stood for a photo almost 28 years earlier! A couple of hours later I was on my way to Luxembourg. I arrived around 21.00 and was met by one of my colleagues from MN and my host in Trier. We arrived in Trier just before 22.00. The major accomplishment of the day was that my luggage arrived, too! Yea!
I spent M/T/W of this week getting settled - i.e., getting a user ID and installing the software I needed to use their W-LAN. I've had great German food - I love that nice, fattening, heavy German food. My hips don't, but I do! Monday evening we went out with several members of the department. Tuesday we had our first class and it went really well. We have 14 students. One from France, one from Luxembourg, one from Romania, two from Turkey, one daughter of US military, and 8 German students. I think it's going to be a good group. My colleague teaches tomorrow - Race and Class in the US; I teach Tuesday - Social Class and Patterns of Consumption.
Today I had a great day. I spent the morning prepping for class. At 13.00 a couple of folks from the department picked me up to go for a hike. We walked through the forest, up wooden steps, across swinging bridges, past several waterfalls and ended up at a restaurant beneath Burg Ramstein, an old fortification. You can see pictures here. It was just terrific! Then, we went back to Trier and I caught the bus for the Frankfurt-Hahn airport.
Yes, I thought about going to the G8, but decided to spend the weekend in Stockholm instead. Keep your fingers crossed that Ryan Air gets me there! I won't bore you with the details having to do with bus schedules, etc., but I'm staying at this incredible new (French) hotel across the street from the terminal so that I can catch my morning flight. For 41 euro, about USD$55 I have a fabulous room with free wireless and a flatscreen tv. I think that tonight I might get a really good night's sleep!
If all goes well I'll try to post a note from Stockholm. Meanwhile, four weeks from today we arrive in Fredericton! Hope all is well with you!
I spent M/T/W of this week getting settled - i.e., getting a user ID and installing the software I needed to use their W-LAN. I've had great German food - I love that nice, fattening, heavy German food. My hips don't, but I do! Monday evening we went out with several members of the department. Tuesday we had our first class and it went really well. We have 14 students. One from France, one from Luxembourg, one from Romania, two from Turkey, one daughter of US military, and 8 German students. I think it's going to be a good group. My colleague teaches tomorrow - Race and Class in the US; I teach Tuesday - Social Class and Patterns of Consumption.
Today I had a great day. I spent the morning prepping for class. At 13.00 a couple of folks from the department picked me up to go for a hike. We walked through the forest, up wooden steps, across swinging bridges, past several waterfalls and ended up at a restaurant beneath Burg Ramstein, an old fortification. You can see pictures here. It was just terrific! Then, we went back to Trier and I caught the bus for the Frankfurt-Hahn airport.
Yes, I thought about going to the G8, but decided to spend the weekend in Stockholm instead. Keep your fingers crossed that Ryan Air gets me there! I won't bore you with the details having to do with bus schedules, etc., but I'm staying at this incredible new (French) hotel across the street from the terminal so that I can catch my morning flight. For 41 euro, about USD$55 I have a fabulous room with free wireless and a flatscreen tv. I think that tonight I might get a really good night's sleep!
If all goes well I'll try to post a note from Stockholm. Meanwhile, four weeks from today we arrive in Fredericton! Hope all is well with you!
07 July 2006
Germany
This is a late update on my recent jaunt back to Europe -
On 23 June I took a quick trip to Cleveland for a wedding and then back to Minneapolis on the 24th where I met up with my colleague, K, changed planes, and headed to Amsterdam. We arrived on Sunday around 12:30 with time only to get through customs, freshen up, and on to the KLM cityhopper that would take us to Frankfurt. We arrived in Frankfurt around 3 pm - which, of course, was about 8 am body time. K got our rental car and off we went to our final destination, Trier.
We arrived around 5:30, having come through some dramatic lightning and light rain. We checked into the delightful Alstadt Hotel and got settled in. Should you find yourself in Trier, I highly recommend it. Perfect location, great rooms, terrific breakfast, and very reasonable. We went up to Tarforst for dinner at Weinstube Gehlen where I had a terrific whitefish and boiled potatoes. I’ll say right now so that I don’t keep repeating myself, I didn’t have a bad meal here. That includes the tiramisu eis.
I couldn’t quite believe that I had left Minneapolis at 1:30 on Friday and by the same time on Sunday I had flown to Cleveland, attended a wedding, flown back to Minneapolis, flown to Frankfurt via Amsterdam, and driven to Trier. Three flights, about 6000 miles, less than forty-eight hours. I’m not used to this kind of travel, but it’s worth it to visit Europe twice in one month!
On Monday we had meetings at the university beginning at 8:30 am. In the afternoon I got “K’s tour” of Trier including the Porta Nigra, the Dom, etc. That evening we had a 6 pm meeting with the faculty to give our presentation, after which we had dinner at a nice place in town – small sausages/wurst, mashed potatoes, and sauerkraut – where K would have liked to hit on the server. She didn’t.
Tuesday we had a meeting at 9 am to see the video conferencing system that will allow a class in Saint Paul and a class in Trier to communicate with each other in real time and with a visual, as well as audio, connection. Now all we have to do is get the equipment in place on our end… Afterwards we zipped over to Luxembourg where we visited the American Military Cemetery and the grave of General George S. Patton. Then we went to the Germany Military Cemetery, just down the road. K has been here several times, most recently with her class of first year students last January.
Story from that trip: After seeing the U.S. cemetery where grave markers have either a cross or a Star of David on the top, student goes to German cemetery and says, “Uh, why don’t any of these markers have the Star of David?” Me thinks there may be a problem with K-12 history education.
Then we went into the city of Luxembourg and strolled around. It is really fun to see the original city wall, the buildings that sit down in the valley along the wall, and to actually see and hear from French. Note to travelers – if you are visiting this area of Germany by car, get your gas at the border in Luxembourg. What was 1.38 euro in Germany was 1.13 in Luxembourg. Tax differential. We came back and had a late lunch at one of K’s favorite places in Tarforst. I wasn’t going to leave without Jaegerschnitzel and pommes (French fries)! That was my favorite meal when I lived in Germany. We had a 7 pm meeting with a member of the faculty in Trier and then went to meet other folks at a café. When they finished eating we went to yet another café and watched some of the Spain-France World Cup match.
World Cup fever is beyond that I’m capable of describing. With Germany headed into the quarter finals and being the host nation, perhaps you can imagine what it’s like. We actually tried to change our tickets so that we could stay for Friday’s game, but were unable to do so.
So, back to Tuesday night. We left before the game was over – France won – and wandered back to the hotel. This morning K woke up feeling quite ill so we postponed our 9:30 meeting until 1 pm and I went shopping while she tried to rest. I bought some Birkenstocks that I had been eyeing and picked up a few trinkets for the family. K was feeling a bit better, the drugs having kicked in, and we had a quick lunch and headed to our fun and productive meeting with a couple of faculty who we hope can come to our campus next year and teach a short-term course. After that, more shopping, some currywurst for supper, our last tiramisu eis and back to the hotel to pack.
So, that’s it, my travels to Trier… and Cleveland. Next on the calendar – Saint Louis.
On 23 June I took a quick trip to Cleveland for a wedding and then back to Minneapolis on the 24th where I met up with my colleague, K, changed planes, and headed to Amsterdam. We arrived on Sunday around 12:30 with time only to get through customs, freshen up, and on to the KLM cityhopper that would take us to Frankfurt. We arrived in Frankfurt around 3 pm - which, of course, was about 8 am body time. K got our rental car and off we went to our final destination, Trier.
We arrived around 5:30, having come through some dramatic lightning and light rain. We checked into the delightful Alstadt Hotel and got settled in. Should you find yourself in Trier, I highly recommend it. Perfect location, great rooms, terrific breakfast, and very reasonable. We went up to Tarforst for dinner at Weinstube Gehlen where I had a terrific whitefish and boiled potatoes. I’ll say right now so that I don’t keep repeating myself, I didn’t have a bad meal here. That includes the tiramisu eis.
I couldn’t quite believe that I had left Minneapolis at 1:30 on Friday and by the same time on Sunday I had flown to Cleveland, attended a wedding, flown back to Minneapolis, flown to Frankfurt via Amsterdam, and driven to Trier. Three flights, about 6000 miles, less than forty-eight hours. I’m not used to this kind of travel, but it’s worth it to visit Europe twice in one month!
On Monday we had meetings at the university beginning at 8:30 am. In the afternoon I got “K’s tour” of Trier including the Porta Nigra, the Dom, etc. That evening we had a 6 pm meeting with the faculty to give our presentation, after which we had dinner at a nice place in town – small sausages/wurst, mashed potatoes, and sauerkraut – where K would have liked to hit on the server. She didn’t.
Tuesday we had a meeting at 9 am to see the video conferencing system that will allow a class in Saint Paul and a class in Trier to communicate with each other in real time and with a visual, as well as audio, connection. Now all we have to do is get the equipment in place on our end… Afterwards we zipped over to Luxembourg where we visited the American Military Cemetery and the grave of General George S. Patton. Then we went to the Germany Military Cemetery, just down the road. K has been here several times, most recently with her class of first year students last January.
Story from that trip: After seeing the U.S. cemetery where grave markers have either a cross or a Star of David on the top, student goes to German cemetery and says, “Uh, why don’t any of these markers have the Star of David?” Me thinks there may be a problem with K-12 history education.
Then we went into the city of Luxembourg and strolled around. It is really fun to see the original city wall, the buildings that sit down in the valley along the wall, and to actually see and hear from French. Note to travelers – if you are visiting this area of Germany by car, get your gas at the border in Luxembourg. What was 1.38 euro in Germany was 1.13 in Luxembourg. Tax differential. We came back and had a late lunch at one of K’s favorite places in Tarforst. I wasn’t going to leave without Jaegerschnitzel and pommes (French fries)! That was my favorite meal when I lived in Germany. We had a 7 pm meeting with a member of the faculty in Trier and then went to meet other folks at a café. When they finished eating we went to yet another café and watched some of the Spain-France World Cup match.
World Cup fever is beyond that I’m capable of describing. With Germany headed into the quarter finals and being the host nation, perhaps you can imagine what it’s like. We actually tried to change our tickets so that we could stay for Friday’s game, but were unable to do so.
So, back to Tuesday night. We left before the game was over – France won – and wandered back to the hotel. This morning K woke up feeling quite ill so we postponed our 9:30 meeting until 1 pm and I went shopping while she tried to rest. I bought some Birkenstocks that I had been eyeing and picked up a few trinkets for the family. K was feeling a bit better, the drugs having kicked in, and we had a quick lunch and headed to our fun and productive meeting with a couple of faculty who we hope can come to our campus next year and teach a short-term course. After that, more shopping, some currywurst for supper, our last tiramisu eis and back to the hotel to pack.
So, that’s it, my travels to Trier… and Cleveland. Next on the calendar – Saint Louis.
09 June 2006
Catching Up!
A little catching up… On Wednesday went to Zandvoort and Haarlem; minus Kari and one student who had to run hither and yon to get a temporary passport. We caught the 9:25 train to Zandvoort and, upon arrival, walked over to the beach. After taking a photo of all the students with the North Sea as the backdrop, I walked up the beach by myself. Being the weekday and still early summer, there were very few people there. It was absolutely wonderful to roll up my pant legs and take a walk in the edge of the North Sea while listening to the Indigo Girls on my iPod. Ahhh… I walked farther up the beach, past the various themed “beach clubs.” These are areas on the beach, but marked by fencing, etc. in which you can grab a beach chair or little cabana and make your home for the day – as long as you are buying food or drink. They each have their own theme; e.g., the Venice Beach Club and Safari Club. There was one that was clearly made to welcome kids. 5YO would have loved it! I then strolled through town and ended up having a snack of tiny shrimp on a crisp roll – a mini-baguette of sorts called a pistolet. Yum!
After meeting up with the students we jumped on the train to Haarlem and I again walked the town. I found a delightful little housewares store and a terrific collection of melamine bowls, cups, spoons from a Danish company called Rice. I bought two periwinkle bowls and spoons for partner and myself and green for 5YO. I later ran into two students sunning themselves at a café at the Grote Markt. I joined them for a Diet Coke Light and ordered a brie sandwich. After a really long wait I wasn’t sure if there was a problem with my order if it was just that casual European approach to dining. As it turned out, my order, having been taken on a PDA-like device, had never made it to the kitchen. I eventually got my sandwich with huge slabs of brie and was able to make it to the station in time for our ride back to Amsterdam.
When I returned to Amsterdam, I found Kari and we made our way back to Sauna Deco. It was late afternoon; the perfect time for a sauna. We paid, got our towels, robes, and locker keys, and made our way to the locker room. The eucalyptus scent wafting throughout the place was wonderful! After changing and showering we first went into the dry sauna where the temperature was about 198 degrees Fahrenheit. It was fabulous. We then went to the cold pool where Kari didn’t get in quite all the way and I went in up to my shoulders. That was enough! Then, at the foot bath we let our feet soak, soak, soak. We then went to the wet sauna for a while. As if this wasn’t enough pampering, we then each enjoyed a 15 minute hydro massage. This place is amazing! Not only are the saunas terrific, but it’s just a beautiful setting. Be sure to check out their web site for photos.
Now, for those of you who may be wondering, yes, this is a co-ed sauna, including the locker room. And, yes, people are completely nude. But, unlike my experience at a sauna in Germany many, many years ago, people were a bit more modest, wearing towels or robes to move from one section to another and while sitting in the non-sauna areas. Many people who have grown up in the United States (and other places, like Great Britain, for example), can’t quite imagine an environment where women and men are nude, but completely non-sexualized. It’s true. If you are reading and think you might ever find yourself visiting Amsterdam, make a note of Sauna Deco. It’s just a hop, skip, and a jump, by foot, from Centraal Station at Herengracht 115. You won’t regret it!
On Thursday we took the train to Utrecht for a meeting at the university’s School of Human Rights Research. We met with Cees Flinterman and Hans Wermolder. They gave us a nice overview of the work of the program and we had a very enjoyable conversation about human rights as well as about some of the other issues we’ve been considering during our visit to the Netherlands. For example, as the demographic composition of the country changes, might the traditional “gedogen” also undergo change? It was a wonderful opportunity! Again, I’m not quite sure that the students understand the stature of our hosts and how incredibly generous it was of them to take the time to meet with us. For example, Prof.dr. Flinterman’s bio reads:
“Cees Flinterman was an alternate member of the United Nations Sub-Commission on Prevention of Discrimination and Protection of Minorities (1987-1991), Vice-Chairperson of the 49th session of the United Nations Commission on Human Rights (1993) and Head of the Delegation of the Kingdom of the Netherlands on the 49th and 50th session of the UN Commission on Human Rights (1993 and 1994) and to the World Conference on Human Rights (1993) . . . . Since August 2002 he is member of the UN Committee on the Elimination of Discrimination against Women (CEDAW).” In a word, wow.
After leaving the school, we sent the students off, encouraging them to explore Utrecht, a great “college town.” After a short stroll, Kari and I were heading back to Amsterdam to conduct a recon for Friday night’s activity. But, Kari struck gold when she found a liquor store that actually carried Dutch wine. Apparently none of the “major” liquor stores carry it because so little is produced that they would require too great an amount to stock their shelves. But, this little independent shop had it and she was able to get three bottles to take home. We continued on our way, stopping briefly to see our friend Albert Heijn (aka the Al, or the grocery store) for water.
We got on the train… and sat, and sat, and sat. After about half an hour they announced that folks going to Amsterdam Centraal Station should change trains. We were fortunate to get on the InterCityExpress (ICE) and, thanks to Kari, in a compartment with great seats. The young man sitting across from us was, I noticed, wearing a Twins baseball cap so we started chatting. Turns out that he and a friend from school have been traveling here for three weeks. It’s not, I’ve discovered, original, but his comments, along with some of my experiences these last two and half weeks, made me think of the expression “Generation Whine.” More on that next time. For now, this crotchety old woman is off to bed!
After meeting up with the students we jumped on the train to Haarlem and I again walked the town. I found a delightful little housewares store and a terrific collection of melamine bowls, cups, spoons from a Danish company called Rice. I bought two periwinkle bowls and spoons for partner and myself and green for 5YO. I later ran into two students sunning themselves at a café at the Grote Markt. I joined them for a Diet Coke Light and ordered a brie sandwich. After a really long wait I wasn’t sure if there was a problem with my order if it was just that casual European approach to dining. As it turned out, my order, having been taken on a PDA-like device, had never made it to the kitchen. I eventually got my sandwich with huge slabs of brie and was able to make it to the station in time for our ride back to Amsterdam.
When I returned to Amsterdam, I found Kari and we made our way back to Sauna Deco. It was late afternoon; the perfect time for a sauna. We paid, got our towels, robes, and locker keys, and made our way to the locker room. The eucalyptus scent wafting throughout the place was wonderful! After changing and showering we first went into the dry sauna where the temperature was about 198 degrees Fahrenheit. It was fabulous. We then went to the cold pool where Kari didn’t get in quite all the way and I went in up to my shoulders. That was enough! Then, at the foot bath we let our feet soak, soak, soak. We then went to the wet sauna for a while. As if this wasn’t enough pampering, we then each enjoyed a 15 minute hydro massage. This place is amazing! Not only are the saunas terrific, but it’s just a beautiful setting. Be sure to check out their web site for photos.
Now, for those of you who may be wondering, yes, this is a co-ed sauna, including the locker room. And, yes, people are completely nude. But, unlike my experience at a sauna in Germany many, many years ago, people were a bit more modest, wearing towels or robes to move from one section to another and while sitting in the non-sauna areas. Many people who have grown up in the United States (and other places, like Great Britain, for example), can’t quite imagine an environment where women and men are nude, but completely non-sexualized. It’s true. If you are reading and think you might ever find yourself visiting Amsterdam, make a note of Sauna Deco. It’s just a hop, skip, and a jump, by foot, from Centraal Station at Herengracht 115. You won’t regret it!
On Thursday we took the train to Utrecht for a meeting at the university’s School of Human Rights Research. We met with Cees Flinterman and Hans Wermolder. They gave us a nice overview of the work of the program and we had a very enjoyable conversation about human rights as well as about some of the other issues we’ve been considering during our visit to the Netherlands. For example, as the demographic composition of the country changes, might the traditional “gedogen” also undergo change? It was a wonderful opportunity! Again, I’m not quite sure that the students understand the stature of our hosts and how incredibly generous it was of them to take the time to meet with us. For example, Prof.dr. Flinterman’s bio reads:
“Cees Flinterman was an alternate member of the United Nations Sub-Commission on Prevention of Discrimination and Protection of Minorities (1987-1991), Vice-Chairperson of the 49th session of the United Nations Commission on Human Rights (1993) and Head of the Delegation of the Kingdom of the Netherlands on the 49th and 50th session of the UN Commission on Human Rights (1993 and 1994) and to the World Conference on Human Rights (1993) . . . . Since August 2002 he is member of the UN Committee on the Elimination of Discrimination against Women (CEDAW).” In a word, wow.
After leaving the school, we sent the students off, encouraging them to explore Utrecht, a great “college town.” After a short stroll, Kari and I were heading back to Amsterdam to conduct a recon for Friday night’s activity. But, Kari struck gold when she found a liquor store that actually carried Dutch wine. Apparently none of the “major” liquor stores carry it because so little is produced that they would require too great an amount to stock their shelves. But, this little independent shop had it and she was able to get three bottles to take home. We continued on our way, stopping briefly to see our friend Albert Heijn (aka the Al, or the grocery store) for water.
We got on the train… and sat, and sat, and sat. After about half an hour they announced that folks going to Amsterdam Centraal Station should change trains. We were fortunate to get on the InterCityExpress (ICE) and, thanks to Kari, in a compartment with great seats. The young man sitting across from us was, I noticed, wearing a Twins baseball cap so we started chatting. Turns out that he and a friend from school have been traveling here for three weeks. It’s not, I’ve discovered, original, but his comments, along with some of my experiences these last two and half weeks, made me think of the expression “Generation Whine.” More on that next time. For now, this crotchety old woman is off to bed!
06 June 2006
Den Haag/The Hague
I posted an account of today's journey on the class blog, so click on "Amsterdam 2006" if you'd like to know more. I'm off to bed!
05 June 2006
Just outside of Amsterdam...
This morning I took a little field trip to IKEA-Amsterdam, just to see if it was any different from the stores in the states. Nope. Well, actually, I think the ice cream cones in the states might be $1.00. Here they were 50 cents!
Kari and I met around 1:00 with the hope of going to a sauna, Sauna Deco. We took a nice walk along the Herengracht, but, alas, as today is a Dutch holiday it was closed. We decided to go to Centraal Station and simply see where the next train to a nearby town was headed. We bought tickets for 7,50 euro and hopped the train to Purmerend. We arrived and, as we walked from the station toward the center of town, we saw people walking in the same direction and then, we heard music! Score! We had happened upon something like a small festival in the square. Well, yes, sort of...!
Imagine our surprise when we got closer and saw an area of about 20 yards square where a small border about a foot high had been installed and sand dumped within. Picture a very large sandbox. Then, picture two horses and people taking rides across, around a 50 gallon drum and back. There were a couple of vendors with tack, belts, etc. and lots of people in cowboy hats, boots, black clothing, silver paraphernalia, etc. There was another “booth” with dream catchers and other Native American items. There was even a “moon walk” kind of thing with inflated saguaros on the sides! We couldn’t believe it. We had come to the Netherlands… and found Texas!
On the other side of the square was a raised platform and, hold on to your hat, a multi-talented guy was playing, not at the same time, a variety of instruments – flute, guitar, and a few I don’t recall – to recorded music while… dozens of people were line dancing!!!! I am NOT kidding. Men, women, some very old, one with a cast on her arm, some in “costume,” some holding children. But, they were all line dancing and they knew the dances! One of the songs I recall was Yankee Doodle Dandy. It was so strange! But, they were having a blast!
We wandered around the otherwise quiet town and then, discovering that the restaurants, though open for drinks, weren’t serving dinner for another hour, headed back to Amsterdam. I made my third trip to the Ristorante Pizzeria La Traviata near the Rembrandtplein and we each had a great pizza followed by some of the best tiramisu I’ve ever had in my life! Yes, it’s great fun to eat one’s way through Europe…!
Tomorrow we have to leave to hotel at 7:30 to take the tram and two trains to Den Haag/The Hague! for our appointment at the International Criminal Court. So, I’d best make it an early night. Here are a couple of snapshots -
Riding in the center of Purmerend.
Line dancing in the center of Purmerend.
Good night!
Kari and I met around 1:00 with the hope of going to a sauna, Sauna Deco. We took a nice walk along the Herengracht, but, alas, as today is a Dutch holiday it was closed. We decided to go to Centraal Station and simply see where the next train to a nearby town was headed. We bought tickets for 7,50 euro and hopped the train to Purmerend. We arrived and, as we walked from the station toward the center of town, we saw people walking in the same direction and then, we heard music! Score! We had happened upon something like a small festival in the square. Well, yes, sort of...!
Imagine our surprise when we got closer and saw an area of about 20 yards square where a small border about a foot high had been installed and sand dumped within. Picture a very large sandbox. Then, picture two horses and people taking rides across, around a 50 gallon drum and back. There were a couple of vendors with tack, belts, etc. and lots of people in cowboy hats, boots, black clothing, silver paraphernalia, etc. There was another “booth” with dream catchers and other Native American items. There was even a “moon walk” kind of thing with inflated saguaros on the sides! We couldn’t believe it. We had come to the Netherlands… and found Texas!
On the other side of the square was a raised platform and, hold on to your hat, a multi-talented guy was playing, not at the same time, a variety of instruments – flute, guitar, and a few I don’t recall – to recorded music while… dozens of people were line dancing!!!! I am NOT kidding. Men, women, some very old, one with a cast on her arm, some in “costume,” some holding children. But, they were all line dancing and they knew the dances! One of the songs I recall was Yankee Doodle Dandy. It was so strange! But, they were having a blast!
We wandered around the otherwise quiet town and then, discovering that the restaurants, though open for drinks, weren’t serving dinner for another hour, headed back to Amsterdam. I made my third trip to the Ristorante Pizzeria La Traviata near the Rembrandtplein and we each had a great pizza followed by some of the best tiramisu I’ve ever had in my life! Yes, it’s great fun to eat one’s way through Europe…!
Tomorrow we have to leave to hotel at 7:30 to take the tram and two trains to Den Haag/The Hague! for our appointment at the International Criminal Court. So, I’d best make it an early night. Here are a couple of snapshots -
Riding in the center of Purmerend.
Line dancing in the center of Purmerend.Good night!
04 June 2006
A few snapshots...
This is one of the more residential streets in Aachen, though still in the center of town. I was particularly struck by the "old/new/old" of this stretch of buildings.
This is also Aachen, taken from the steps of the city hall, or Das Rathaus.
I didn't really get any photos in Köln that do justice to the Cathedral and by the time we got to Maastricht the light was fading, but the above is one of the photos I took of a church there.Köln, Aachen, and Maastricht
I’m really tired, but I’ve just got to write this down before another day passes and I begin to forget some of the detail!
On Friday afternoon, as you will know if you’ve been following the class blog, “Amsterdam 2006,” my colleague, Kari, and I picked up our rental car and made a quick – and both fun and productive - visit to Haarlem. After a short night’s sleep, we arose for a 5 am departure on Saturday morning. We were driving to Köln, Germany. We stopped several times hoping to find some fresh bakery goods along the way, but, alas, we did not. So, immediately upon arriving at a very serene Köln, we visited Backerei Merzenich for a quick bite. I had one of the brötchen that I remember so well from my Germany days, along with cheese. Anyone who says you cannot live on cheese and bread is just plain wrong, but that’s a story for another time.
Kari gave me a quick tour of the town, starting at the Köln Cathedral. For some great photos, not taken by me, click here. She showed me several of the 14 churches that one formed, as I understand it, the boundary of the city. Apparently you couldn’t enter the city without coming through a church. We saw the mosaic that had been unearthed and around which the G8 leaders had a meal during the summit in 1999 (I think). She showed me some of the Roman road, ruins of gates, the GLBT info centre, and, of course, we did some shopping.
They were setting up the scaffolding for the large screen “televisions” that will broadcast World Cup events. As you can imagine, as it’s almost impossible to go a block on Amsterdam without seeing “Hup, Holland, Hup” and orange, orange, orange, the presence of the event is even more so in the host nation of Germany. In fact I broke down and got an “official” FIFA/Adidas match ball replica for 5YO and a Dutch “fan flag.” Even when you’re not a football (aka soccer) fan it’s hard not to get interested!
At 11:30 we had lunch with four delightful folks to talk about a possible exchange program. Kari had promised me the best bratwurst in the world so I soon found myself at the Brauhaus Sion sharing a 1/4 metre of bratwurst accompanied by incredible wirsig and bratkartoffeln; that's some kind of kale dish and roasted potatoes. It was fabulous! We had a great time visiting and soon hit the road.
On to the fabulous town of Aachen! We walked, and walked, and walked. I bought some Nobis Printen. It’s like a chewy gingerbread and comes in a variety of types; e.g., chocolate covered, iced, with nuts. Here we also visited a cathedral.
From the web: “Aachen Cathedral suffered relatively little damage in the war. . . . In the gallery of the chapel is the marble throne thought to be Charlemagne's; it was long used for coronations. Charlemagne's tomb is marked by a stone slab over which hangs a bronze chandelier presented by Frederick I Barbarossa in 1168. The cathedral treasury contains examples of fine medieval workmanship and sacred relics (including the supposed swaddling clothes of Jesus, as well as his crucifixion loin cloth) that are displayed to pilgrims every seven years.” For a history buff, this was an incredibly cool place to visit! To imagine that Charlemagne was buried on this very spot in 824…! Wow.
We then visited – on the “Eat Your Way Across Germany tour” - a small eis café with the most amazing ?? – “desserts” doesn’t really do them justice. These were… eis sculptures? They had eis desserts that looked like spaghetti and lasagna; that had many, many fruits and brilliant colors; that were just indescribable. I wanted to buy a menu just to be able to show them to people! We shared a rather simple chocolate sundae and continued on….
A short time later we found ourselves back in the Netherlands, in Maastricht. Although each town had its own charm, I absolutely loved Maastricht. It had (at least) two very large, open plazas surrounded on at least one side by cafes. There were, of course, churches. There were statues, and bridges, and incredible, incredible architecture. And, yes, World Cup mania. Some of the buildings that now house very upscale retailers were built in the 1600s. Although we didn’t plan to visit on a Saturday afternoon, I saw the building that houses the Center for Gender and Diversity at the University of Maastricht. One of the things that was particularly striking about the town was that, as it sits in between Belgium and Germany, but in the Netherlands, there is an interesting mix of languages being spoken, signs, and people. I don’t know when, but I definitely hope to get back to Maastricht sooner rather than later.
We left around 8:30 and made our way back to Amsterdam, arriving around 10:30. Unsure of whether we were too tired to eat or too hungry to go right to sleep, we opted for a walk up to the Leidseplein and a quick visit to Walk to Wok. Of course it was busy, but the line moves quickly. I ordered whole wheat noodles with shrimp and black bean/soya sauce. At 6,90 euro it is quite a deal! We headed back to the hotel, ate while watching a bit of the Jon Stewart Daily Show: Global Edition, and called it a night.
Tomorrow – a report on a quick visit to Zandvoort!
On Friday afternoon, as you will know if you’ve been following the class blog, “Amsterdam 2006,” my colleague, Kari, and I picked up our rental car and made a quick – and both fun and productive - visit to Haarlem. After a short night’s sleep, we arose for a 5 am departure on Saturday morning. We were driving to Köln, Germany. We stopped several times hoping to find some fresh bakery goods along the way, but, alas, we did not. So, immediately upon arriving at a very serene Köln, we visited Backerei Merzenich for a quick bite. I had one of the brötchen that I remember so well from my Germany days, along with cheese. Anyone who says you cannot live on cheese and bread is just plain wrong, but that’s a story for another time.
Kari gave me a quick tour of the town, starting at the Köln Cathedral. For some great photos, not taken by me, click here. She showed me several of the 14 churches that one formed, as I understand it, the boundary of the city. Apparently you couldn’t enter the city without coming through a church. We saw the mosaic that had been unearthed and around which the G8 leaders had a meal during the summit in 1999 (I think). She showed me some of the Roman road, ruins of gates, the GLBT info centre, and, of course, we did some shopping.
They were setting up the scaffolding for the large screen “televisions” that will broadcast World Cup events. As you can imagine, as it’s almost impossible to go a block on Amsterdam without seeing “Hup, Holland, Hup” and orange, orange, orange, the presence of the event is even more so in the host nation of Germany. In fact I broke down and got an “official” FIFA/Adidas match ball replica for 5YO and a Dutch “fan flag.” Even when you’re not a football (aka soccer) fan it’s hard not to get interested!
At 11:30 we had lunch with four delightful folks to talk about a possible exchange program. Kari had promised me the best bratwurst in the world so I soon found myself at the Brauhaus Sion sharing a 1/4 metre of bratwurst accompanied by incredible wirsig and bratkartoffeln; that's some kind of kale dish and roasted potatoes. It was fabulous! We had a great time visiting and soon hit the road.
On to the fabulous town of Aachen! We walked, and walked, and walked. I bought some Nobis Printen. It’s like a chewy gingerbread and comes in a variety of types; e.g., chocolate covered, iced, with nuts. Here we also visited a cathedral.
From the web: “Aachen Cathedral suffered relatively little damage in the war. . . . In the gallery of the chapel is the marble throne thought to be Charlemagne's; it was long used for coronations. Charlemagne's tomb is marked by a stone slab over which hangs a bronze chandelier presented by Frederick I Barbarossa in 1168. The cathedral treasury contains examples of fine medieval workmanship and sacred relics (including the supposed swaddling clothes of Jesus, as well as his crucifixion loin cloth) that are displayed to pilgrims every seven years.” For a history buff, this was an incredibly cool place to visit! To imagine that Charlemagne was buried on this very spot in 824…! Wow.
We then visited – on the “Eat Your Way Across Germany tour” - a small eis café with the most amazing ?? – “desserts” doesn’t really do them justice. These were… eis sculptures? They had eis desserts that looked like spaghetti and lasagna; that had many, many fruits and brilliant colors; that were just indescribable. I wanted to buy a menu just to be able to show them to people! We shared a rather simple chocolate sundae and continued on….
A short time later we found ourselves back in the Netherlands, in Maastricht. Although each town had its own charm, I absolutely loved Maastricht. It had (at least) two very large, open plazas surrounded on at least one side by cafes. There were, of course, churches. There were statues, and bridges, and incredible, incredible architecture. And, yes, World Cup mania. Some of the buildings that now house very upscale retailers were built in the 1600s. Although we didn’t plan to visit on a Saturday afternoon, I saw the building that houses the Center for Gender and Diversity at the University of Maastricht. One of the things that was particularly striking about the town was that, as it sits in between Belgium and Germany, but in the Netherlands, there is an interesting mix of languages being spoken, signs, and people. I don’t know when, but I definitely hope to get back to Maastricht sooner rather than later.
We left around 8:30 and made our way back to Amsterdam, arriving around 10:30. Unsure of whether we were too tired to eat or too hungry to go right to sleep, we opted for a walk up to the Leidseplein and a quick visit to Walk to Wok. Of course it was busy, but the line moves quickly. I ordered whole wheat noodles with shrimp and black bean/soya sauce. At 6,90 euro it is quite a deal! We headed back to the hotel, ate while watching a bit of the Jon Stewart Daily Show: Global Edition, and called it a night.
Tomorrow – a report on a quick visit to Zandvoort!
29 May 2006
Amsterdam
I've had major technical issues for most of the first week. Today I seem to be, at least for the moment, in luck. Here's a photo of 5YO sharing his "Puffy" fish with another child playing at Museumplein. Note: Puffy was later lost when thrown on top of a skaters' "half pipe" which had no way of being accessible by 5YO's parents!
16 April 2006
Postscript
Well, we had planned to do the great Southwest Road Trip in August so that partner could see Arches, Bryce, and Zion, on our way to grandma and grandpa's in Tucson. But, after our Spring Break trip, we came to the conclusion that five 12-hour days with 5YO would not a fun trip make. So, we're currently checking air fares and will probably fly to Arizona in August. But, in the interim we'll be in Amsterdam and Saint Louis, MO and I'll be in Chicago, Cleveland, and Montreal so check back to see if we/I manage to make those travels without unraveling. Cheerio!
Spring Break 2006, Part III
We returned to Branson and spent Thursday evening and Friday there. Nothing eventful to report except that we set up TiVo. Let me just say that TiVo is about the best creation in the world, with the exception of the Internet/WWW. It beats the iPod by a country mile and then some. I LOVE TiVo. Since I'm writing this late, let me provide an example.
I thought that Commander in Chief - a poor, but tolerable substitution for West Wing - had been cancelled. Then, thanks to Newsweek I saw, on Friday the 14th, that it had been broadcast the night before. In LBT (life before TiVo) that would have been a crisis. But TiVo, programmed to record Commander in Chief - by program, not day/time - "knew" that it had been broadcast. A quick check of our "Now Playing" list and there it was! Hooray for TiVo.
Yeah, that may not seem like a real travel tidbit, but I can't tell you how great it is to use the Season Pass and then not have to worry about checking the times, making sure the tape is at the right place, etc. TiVo rocks!
Well, back to travel. On Saturday, we did the 12 hour haul back to Saint Paul. For lunch we stopped at Gates BarBQ in Kansas City. It was good, but I definitely prefer Memphis-style BBQ. And, yes, there is a theme here. One, this trip was about authentic BBQ. And, two, I'd like to try to travel and not each every meal at some national chain that you can see from the highway.
We were pretty tired when we got to the Twin Cities so we did - for better or worse - cave and stop at one of our favorite chains, Panera. In a word - or two - asiago focaccia. Yum. Of course, this was actually a fitting end to the trip, perhaps, since Panera actually began its existence as the St. Louis Bread Company.
That's it for now!
I thought that Commander in Chief - a poor, but tolerable substitution for West Wing - had been cancelled. Then, thanks to Newsweek I saw, on Friday the 14th, that it had been broadcast the night before. In LBT (life before TiVo) that would have been a crisis. But TiVo, programmed to record Commander in Chief - by program, not day/time - "knew" that it had been broadcast. A quick check of our "Now Playing" list and there it was! Hooray for TiVo.
Yeah, that may not seem like a real travel tidbit, but I can't tell you how great it is to use the Season Pass and then not have to worry about checking the times, making sure the tape is at the right place, etc. TiVo rocks!
Well, back to travel. On Saturday, we did the 12 hour haul back to Saint Paul. For lunch we stopped at Gates BarBQ in Kansas City. It was good, but I definitely prefer Memphis-style BBQ. And, yes, there is a theme here. One, this trip was about authentic BBQ. And, two, I'd like to try to travel and not each every meal at some national chain that you can see from the highway.
We were pretty tired when we got to the Twin Cities so we did - for better or worse - cave and stop at one of our favorite chains, Panera. In a word - or two - asiago focaccia. Yum. Of course, this was actually a fitting end to the trip, perhaps, since Panera actually began its existence as the St. Louis Bread Company.
That's it for now!
11 April 2006
Spring Break 2006, Part II
On Tuesday, 4 April, after lunch at the cafe, we took a drive up Canal Street and then over to the Ninth Ward. I was curious to see if I could see much change in the almost two months since I had been there before. We passed one of the Common Ground locations, the one where we had unloaded water back in January. We passed a lot of houses that looked, from the outside anyway, just as they did in January. I noticed in today's New York Times that they are still finding bodies that were missed on the first, or even second, search. That's just about as depressing as it gets. To imagine someone's mother, child, friend, neighbor... having been there for seven months, undiscovered. Even having been there before, it's just overwhelming to try to consider the scope of things. We made our way back to the hotel.
Although it seems horrendously incongruous, we then went for a walk in the French Quarter. Keeping in mind that 5YO was in tow, although the point of the trip was to deliver the donation and for partner to see what I had witnessed in January, we had to try to fit in some "fun." We tried to go to the Central Grocery - home of the muffuletta - but it had already closed for the day. After stopping in a few of the shops that are open for business, we went to Cafe du Monde for the requisite coffee - or milk, depending - and beignets. Now, watching 5YO eat - and pronounce quite well - beignets was a real delight.
On the morning of the 5th, needing a few gifts, we picked up some pralines at Aunt Sally's and started out of town. Now, I'm a pretty risk averse person and driving with the fuel light on is not my idea of a good time. But, there we were, headed East on I-10 on vapors. Did I mention that a lot of the gas stations in the area are not operational. With empty apartment complexes on either side of us and stores, including a Wal-Mart, boarded up, we cruised toward Slidell. Fortunately we made it over the bridge and into a functional station, filling up before continuing on our way toward Ocean Springs, MS.
We had lunch at the Mellow Mushroom and picked up some afternoon snacks at the Tato-Nut Donut Shop. Then, we drove over to the beach area so that 5YO could run around a bit. I noticed that a few of the homes that had been destroyed but, as of January, not cleared were now gone. As I said in January, you just can't believe what the wind and water can do.
We left Ocean Springs and went over to I-90 in Biloxi - up to I-10 and west because the I-90 bridge is gone - and drove along the coast to the US-49 access in Gulfport. I didn't think that things looked much more cleaned up than in January. I did notice a few places where some clearing was done, some reconstruction has started, but mostly it's just devastating. 5YO, as we explained to him about "the storm" said, "It's like a nightmare." I think this is a line from one of his DVDs, but found it interesting that he made the connection. Yes, it's a nightmare.
From Gulfport we headed north on US-49 toward Jackson where we picked up I-55 to Memphis.
Although it seems horrendously incongruous, we then went for a walk in the French Quarter. Keeping in mind that 5YO was in tow, although the point of the trip was to deliver the donation and for partner to see what I had witnessed in January, we had to try to fit in some "fun." We tried to go to the Central Grocery - home of the muffuletta - but it had already closed for the day. After stopping in a few of the shops that are open for business, we went to Cafe du Monde for the requisite coffee - or milk, depending - and beignets. Now, watching 5YO eat - and pronounce quite well - beignets was a real delight.
On the morning of the 5th, needing a few gifts, we picked up some pralines at Aunt Sally's and started out of town. Now, I'm a pretty risk averse person and driving with the fuel light on is not my idea of a good time. But, there we were, headed East on I-10 on vapors. Did I mention that a lot of the gas stations in the area are not operational. With empty apartment complexes on either side of us and stores, including a Wal-Mart, boarded up, we cruised toward Slidell. Fortunately we made it over the bridge and into a functional station, filling up before continuing on our way toward Ocean Springs, MS.
We had lunch at the Mellow Mushroom and picked up some afternoon snacks at the Tato-Nut Donut Shop. Then, we drove over to the beach area so that 5YO could run around a bit. I noticed that a few of the homes that had been destroyed but, as of January, not cleared were now gone. As I said in January, you just can't believe what the wind and water can do.
We left Ocean Springs and went over to I-90 in Biloxi - up to I-10 and west because the I-90 bridge is gone - and drove along the coast to the US-49 access in Gulfport. I didn't think that things looked much more cleaned up than in January. I did notice a few places where some clearing was done, some reconstruction has started, but mostly it's just devastating. 5YO, as we explained to him about "the storm" said, "It's like a nightmare." I think this is a line from one of his DVDs, but found it interesting that he made the connection. Yes, it's a nightmare.
From Gulfport we headed north on US-49 toward Jackson where we picked up I-55 to Memphis.
Spring Break 2006, Part I
On Friday, 31 March, we headed South; destination: Bethany, MO - a mere pit stop on our way to Branson, MO. Question: Does anyone successfully travel the interstate highways without stopping at McDonald's? Okay, anyone with a five year old in tow? After a night at the Super 8 (where the wireless was less) we arrived in Branson on Saturday, early afternoon. After the requisite stop at "grandma's house" we went and checked in at Sunterra's Plantation at Fall Creek. The concierge looked - I'm not kidding - absolutely crestfallen when I told her that we would not be needing a copy of the show schedule, thank you very much. I don't think she could believe it. Yes, it's true. Much as I might have liked to see a taping of the Jim Bakker Show... So, our first day and a half were spent visiting with family. I say Fellini; partner says Tennessee Williams. Need I say more?
On Monday, 3 April, we left promptly at 6 am, headed toward Memphis. It was actually a great drive, winding our way through northern Arkansas, down to Little Rock, and then east. But, make a note - Exit 7, I-55, Jim Neely's Interstate Barbecue. You can't go wrong there, trust me! After a fabulous lunch we continued on our way south, right through the heart of Mississippi. Let me say that it occurred to me more than once that I was glad to be driving a rental car and not our little Civic with the Howard Dean bumper sticker and the Unitarian Universalist Uncommon Denomination/Civil Marriage is a Civil Right bumper sticker. Call me crazy.
Now, Mississippi was quite pretty. Maybe it was the green - Minnesota does have long winters and there was still some snow when we left. Maybe it was the fact that they use inmates to keep the highways neat and tidy. But, it was weird to be thinking about the events that took place in Mississippi during the 1960s as we sped down the highway. That very week on my campus was Social Justice Week honoring Goodman, Schwerner, and Chaney. It was just weird. And, then, those Barbie moms at the McDonald's play area... scary.
We arrived in New Orleans around 7 pm and made our way - after a brief and unintended detour over the bridge to the West Bank - to the Country Inn & Suites on Magazine Street. I highly recommend this place for anyone who appreciates renovated spaces. This hotel was created out of seven historic buildings dating to the mid 19th century. But, free wireless, room safes, comfortable beds, and a great location make it one to consider if traveling to NOLA. The valet only parking is a bit pricey, but I just tried to think of it as my contribution to the NOLA economic recovery.
After unloading our stuff we wandered over to the French Quarter for a bite. We stopped at Cafe Maspero's because it looked kid friendly, or at least as kid friendly as any place in the French Quarter can be. This much was true. But, I had a catfish sandwich that was horribly bland. Famous Dave's BBQ back in Minnesota has better catfish. Partner had red beans and rice that were okay, but not fab. And, five year old (hereinafter 5YO) had a grilled cheese that was actually quite good. One thing of which we took immediate notice was the smoking. Yup, just days after Saint Paul enacts its smoking ban, we go to New Orleans to suck in somebody else's poison. Go figure.
The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, we headed over to the First Street United Methodist Church to meet Reverend Lance Eden. I had a donation to deliver and was anxious to turn it over to them. Well, I called his cell and, as it turned out, he had had to run up to Baton Rouge. After hanging out in the Hands On space for a bit, we connected with Miss JoAnn and delivered the goods. Yippee!
We then made our way to Westwego, over the bridge. Wanting to include something for 5YO I had booked a swamp tour with Westwego Swamp Tours. This was way better than I expected. Before boarding "Captain Tom" showed us an alligator snapping turtle and a few other reptilian creatures. Our cruise director, "Captain Gary," grew up on the bayou and provided a very informative and colorful narrative as we cruised the water watching for alligators. We saw probably 9 or 10 'gators. He tried to grab one and get it in the boat but it escaped. Note: He has the photos to prove earlier success. One tip I picked up was this migraine treatment: find a white willow tree, drive a nail into it - leaving some sticking out, lean your head against the nail and it will "suck the migraine out of you." I highly recommend this activity - the tour, not the headache treatment - if you're looking for something to do besides wander the French Quarter. There's a nice cafe as part of the operation where you can get a great Po-Boy. I had crab cakes with a terrific remoulade and onion rings that were perfect.
That's it for now. In the next post I'll talk about our drive around New Orleans and the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
On Monday, 3 April, we left promptly at 6 am, headed toward Memphis. It was actually a great drive, winding our way through northern Arkansas, down to Little Rock, and then east. But, make a note - Exit 7, I-55, Jim Neely's Interstate Barbecue. You can't go wrong there, trust me! After a fabulous lunch we continued on our way south, right through the heart of Mississippi. Let me say that it occurred to me more than once that I was glad to be driving a rental car and not our little Civic with the Howard Dean bumper sticker and the Unitarian Universalist Uncommon Denomination/Civil Marriage is a Civil Right bumper sticker. Call me crazy.
Now, Mississippi was quite pretty. Maybe it was the green - Minnesota does have long winters and there was still some snow when we left. Maybe it was the fact that they use inmates to keep the highways neat and tidy. But, it was weird to be thinking about the events that took place in Mississippi during the 1960s as we sped down the highway. That very week on my campus was Social Justice Week honoring Goodman, Schwerner, and Chaney. It was just weird. And, then, those Barbie moms at the McDonald's play area... scary.
We arrived in New Orleans around 7 pm and made our way - after a brief and unintended detour over the bridge to the West Bank - to the Country Inn & Suites on Magazine Street. I highly recommend this place for anyone who appreciates renovated spaces. This hotel was created out of seven historic buildings dating to the mid 19th century. But, free wireless, room safes, comfortable beds, and a great location make it one to consider if traveling to NOLA. The valet only parking is a bit pricey, but I just tried to think of it as my contribution to the NOLA economic recovery.
After unloading our stuff we wandered over to the French Quarter for a bite. We stopped at Cafe Maspero's because it looked kid friendly, or at least as kid friendly as any place in the French Quarter can be. This much was true. But, I had a catfish sandwich that was horribly bland. Famous Dave's BBQ back in Minnesota has better catfish. Partner had red beans and rice that were okay, but not fab. And, five year old (hereinafter 5YO) had a grilled cheese that was actually quite good. One thing of which we took immediate notice was the smoking. Yup, just days after Saint Paul enacts its smoking ban, we go to New Orleans to suck in somebody else's poison. Go figure.
The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, we headed over to the First Street United Methodist Church to meet Reverend Lance Eden. I had a donation to deliver and was anxious to turn it over to them. Well, I called his cell and, as it turned out, he had had to run up to Baton Rouge. After hanging out in the Hands On space for a bit, we connected with Miss JoAnn and delivered the goods. Yippee!
We then made our way to Westwego, over the bridge. Wanting to include something for 5YO I had booked a swamp tour with Westwego Swamp Tours. This was way better than I expected. Before boarding "Captain Tom" showed us an alligator snapping turtle and a few other reptilian creatures. Our cruise director, "Captain Gary," grew up on the bayou and provided a very informative and colorful narrative as we cruised the water watching for alligators. We saw probably 9 or 10 'gators. He tried to grab one and get it in the boat but it escaped. Note: He has the photos to prove earlier success. One tip I picked up was this migraine treatment: find a white willow tree, drive a nail into it - leaving some sticking out, lean your head against the nail and it will "suck the migraine out of you." I highly recommend this activity - the tour, not the headache treatment - if you're looking for something to do besides wander the French Quarter. There's a nice cafe as part of the operation where you can get a great Po-Boy. I had crab cakes with a terrific remoulade and onion rings that were perfect.
That's it for now. In the next post I'll talk about our drive around New Orleans and the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
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