19 June 2007

15/16 June 2007

I wrote this first bit on Friday, but, since returning on Saturday evening have been playing catch-up.

Greetings from the Hotel Ibis at the Luxembourg airport! I was up at 06.00 this morning, getting ready. We got on the road by 09.00 and headed to Luxembourg. Unfortunately when we arrived it was drizzling. We parked at the train station – where there’s a tourist info counter – and started walking, but since the rain was picking up N & N decided to drive around and see what they could as they head toward Amsterdam. I do hope they managed to drive over to the old area – about two minutes away – as it is really spectacular. So, we parted ways. I walked up to the center of town and almost immediately found one of the stores I had identified as carrying the brand of bag I was looking to get, Freitag. So, my big souvenir was a messenger bag for more than I should have spent. They are made from recycled truck tarpaulins, etc. Then I found a place to get another "gift for P to be revealed" and then picked up a couple of Diego books in French for 6YO. I really have no more room until I get to Amsterdam and have the other bag out. I then got a takeaway baguette with brie, lettuce, and tomato that was wonderful! The brie is just so much better here. I decided that I would take one of the sightseeing bus tours because I was tired and it’s a good way to get a quick overview. Although I was glad to have seen the International Court of Justice, the rest turned out to be a bit of a waste as we had driven in on almost the exact same route! After that I stopped and got myself an éclair – which I am eating right now. Yum! I think I lost a couple of pounds in Sweden and gained them back this week! I caught the city bus back to the airport and checked in to the hotel. I just discovered that I have a tub – maybe I’ll take my first bath since leaving home!

On Saturday I woke up at 03.30, though I didn't have to get up until 04.00. I was at the airport by 04.30 for my 06.25 flight. I arrived in Amsterdam just before 09.00 and was soon on the train to Centraal Station. I went to two bookstores, Athaeneum and Waterstones, for more "the gift to be revealed" and then to the grocery store, Albert Heijn. As promised, I filled my extra bag with cheese, biscuits, chocolate, etc. to bring home. I returned to the airport around 12.30 and boarded the plane around 14.30. We left around 15.25 and at 17.30, or a few minutes before, arrived in the Twin Cities. I didn't really sleep on the plane; I watched three movies. Wild Hogs was brain candy, but I highly recommend both The Lives of Others and The Namesake.

Tuesday, 19 June: As I said, I've been playing "catch-up," getting organized, etc. BTW, the "gifts to be revealed" were copies of Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone/Sorcerer's Stone (i.e., Volume I) in German, Swedish, French, Dutch, and the Bloomsburg adult jacket edition. That's it for my European jaunt. Stay tuned for 30 June - 12 July when we visit the Maritimes!

13 June 2007

13 June 2007

So, it's Wednesday morning here...

Last night I had dinner with my colleague, N, and his partner and then we went to the home of the department chair. As we approached the little village in which he lives we were on a hill looking out across the valley. It was just beautiful. Then, we found his home on a cul-de-sac, nestled among a lot of greenery. We sat out on a deck, trees all around. We had been told to come for a drink, not dinner. But, his partner brought out a platter of several cheeses, a platter of several meats, a platter of peppers, feta, etc., and a platter of bread. And, the local wine was chilling. We were really full from our dinner, but found a way to eat something! They had been in Paris over the weekend and they had brought the Brie, Camembert, and several of the meats back with them. His partner was born and raised in East Germany. They met in the late 1980s and didn't really think they'd be able to live together. But, a couple of years later the wall came down and Germany was reunified. It was really interesting to chat with them. He, by the way, is the author/editor of this book. Very cool, indeed. We begged off around 22.45 and made our way back "home."

This morning I'm meeting with the person who administers their study abroad programs. Then, N and I have to meet to discuss tomorrow's final class meeting. I think we're also going to try to go downtown for lunch and then I hope to, finally, go to the Karl Marx House. Tomorrow is our last day in Trier. Friday morning my colleague and his partner will drive me to Luxembourg where I'll spend the day/night. My flight Saturday leaves at 06.25 so I thought it would be nice to be right there. This has been the trip of early flights! I'm looking forward to spending the day in Luxembourg City. Lovely is the word that comes to mind when I want to describe it. Other cities, e.g., Amsterdam, are cool, fun, fascinating, but I wouldn't say "lovely." Luxembourg City is lovely. And, I really enjoy being around the French language where I can pick up a lot more of what is being said/written! Anyway, that's the latest. Hope all is well with you wherever you are!

Back in Germany

I wrote this on Monday, 11 June, but haven't had time and Internet access in the same moment. That is, I either had time and no access or access, but no time! It's now Wednesday morning and I've got both!

I’m back in Trier. It’s 21.00 on Monday evening. Last night, still in Sweden, I fell asleep around 19.00. Even though I was exhausted, I had thought about taking a stroll around Nyköping, but it started raining. It seemed a shame to actually stay someplace and see nothing more than the hotel room and bus terminal. But, I went to sleep. Unfortunately, I woke up around 01.00 and really couldn’t get back to sleep. At 02.00 I decided it was futile and did some emailing, got ready, etc. Let me tell you – that was something to negotiate while being quiet, what with sliding the basin and all! At 04.00 I slipped quietly into the breakfast room for a few pieces of Wasa crisp bread and cheese and some hot chocolate. Then, off I went to catch the 04.35 bus. One advantage to the sunrise/sunset times is that I walked out in full daylight. I saw a couple of blocks of what looked like a main shopping area, but that was it. Fifteen minutes later I was at the airport. I have to say, I’ve never arrived at an airport before security was even open!

I checked in and was given a priority boarding pass. Now, I’m not sure whether I paid for it when I bought the ticket – remember, discount airline, you pay for each little amenity – or whether he just gave it to me. I was the first to check in in person. Who knows! I may have said this before, but I couldn’t check in online because I don’t have an EU passport or identity card. I managed to find some snacks that allowed me to spend exactly every piece of change. Unlike some airports there were no charity collection barrels or some such in which to leave your extra change.

And hour and a half later I boarded and was able to get a bulkhead seat. Score! And, a really nice older Swedish guy sat next to me. He has lived in Switzerland for 37 years, but comes “home” two or three times a year. He said that remaining in Switzerland had limited his career opportunities, but he stayed because of the excellent sport (e.g., skiing) community. We had a nice chat about Sweden, family policies, etc.

We arrived back at Frankfurt-Hahn twenty minutes early. While I’m always glad to be back on terra firma, it just meant an extra twenty minutes until the bus, or almost three hours. I changed in my remaining kroner and found out – first time ever – that they would have taken change! Oh, well, the oatmeal cookie I bought with my last few coins was good. I basically killed the time wandering around, sitting in the sun, etc. Finally, the bus to Trier arrived and we departed. We were about 12 km outside Trier when the driver pulled over and the driver from Friday, having parked behind us, came up to the bus. With no comment whatsoever they switched the baggage and we realized that we were to change to the other bus. So, we did. A few minutes later we were deposited at the Trier Hauptbahnhof.

I spent the next several hours shopping in Trier – another useless (to be revealed later) gift for P and, finally, something for myself. I bought a 40 cm x 80 cm (16” x 32”) pillow and pillow case. I love German linens and the lack of adequate pillow in my room was making me miserable. I had a schnitzel for lunch and, for the first time, took the bus back up to the university, or Uni as they call it here. We say “the U,” they say “Uni.”

I dropped my stuff off at my room and went over to, hopefully, check email and do some more prep for tomorrow’s class. Alas, I couldn’t get a connection. Well, it said I was connected, but no applications would open. I went to use the lab and it “recognized” me as my sponsor (a senior administrator) and started installing all kinds of stuff. Yikes! I tried to quit everything and then gave up.

I went to the grocery store, got back to the room, put things away, had curry wurst for a late supper, showered, and here I am. Since I hadn’t been able to email, I also called P from my cell phone – to the tune of about USD$3.62 a minute – to let her know I had returned. Just to top off my day, I just said I was making it quick and that I was back, and the call was one minute and two seconds, or, of course, two minutes. Can you tell I’m a little frustrated?

Well, one more observation about Sweden that some of you will love. Dogs seem to be welcome just about everywhere! I saw them in shops, in cafes, and on the Tunnelbana where there’s a sticker on the doors indicating that dogs are permitted. On the bus this morning there was a sign designating that dogs were welcome behind the middle door, but not in front of it. Cool beans.

Well, I’ve been up 19 hours – even though it’s light out and there are some folks outside chatting I’m hoping I can sleep. Tomorrow I teach from 12.00-16.00 and I have to do some prep in the morning.

By the way, just for the curious – the “kö” in Nyköping is pronounced “sh” so it’s something like Ny-show-ping. And I thought Dutch was difficult!

Cheers!

10 June 2007

10 June 2007

I'm now in Nykoping, Sweden, a small town about 100 km outside of Stockholm. Since my flight leaves at 7 am I decided to book a room closer to the airport. I don't even recall if it would have been possible to get the bus from the city that early!

This morning, after another nice breakfast, I went to the Nobel Museum. I could have stayed much longer watching all the mini-films, but after about 2 hours I decided it was time for lunch. It's a small museum and has only been opened since 2001, but it is definitely worth a visit if you're in the area.

Then I made my way to the City Terminal and found the gate for the 14.30 bus to Skavsta airport. I had a hard time staying awake on the bus! We got to the airport around 15.50. I then found the local bus. The bus driver was really nice and dropped me off at (almost) the right place.

I got here to the Hotel Wiktoria and checked in and, yes, they have wireless. Woo-hoo. But, let me tell you about this room. I had read about this in an on-line review and couldn't quite envision it. But, the toilet, sink, and shower are all one. You slide the basin to the side when using the shower. I'm not kidding! The room has a fridge, tv, sofa, table, etc., but it's almost like being in a cruise ship or train cabin. But, the good news is that they provide drinks and sandwiches in the evening. Additionally, even though I have to leave at 05.00 I can still get breakfast. And, unlike Stockholm where I was on a really busy street, it is very, very quiet.

Well, just thought that since I had an opportunity I'd post an update. Oh, my accomplishment of the day was this. Sitting on the Tunnelbana, waiting for it to pull away, watching the electronic sign that tells you where you're going, the next stop, etc., I knew that it was wrong, not me! In two days I managed to get quite comfortable with getting around, but I think if I stayed a few more days I'd have really settled in. I also found that, with a tiny bit of Dutch and German - and, of course, English - I was able to read a fair amount of signs. Not much, but enough.

I'm really glad I took the opportunity to come up this way and see something new. I had really wanted to go back to Paris - especially since I can hobble along in fractured French - but I felt compelled to visit a place I'd never been and would be less likely to have the opportunity to visit in the future. Another good thing is that it's really the first time I've traveled to a new non-English speaking country since about 1980. That is, in recent years I've been to the Netherlands, Belgium, France, and Germany, but I'd been to them before and have "a sense of things." Since I work with students who are returning from spending a semester abroad it's also been a nice reminder of the learning curve and "culture shock" of arriving in a new country where you understand so little.

I guess that's it - more as it happens!

09 June 2007

9 June 2007

I forgot to mention this... When I arrived yesterday, there were trucks – picture flatbed trucks with sides about chest high on the beds – filled with teenagers with beer and tree branches driving through the city center, blaring music and, well, looking the most like a Pride float of anything I’ve seen outside of a Pride parade. Turns out that there are huge celebrations for high school graduation! The families come out to stand and cheer, many carrying posters with a photo of their son/daughter as a child. I am not kidding when I say that you could smell the beer in the trucks while standing on the sidewalk.

Other miscellaneous thoughts/observations…

The Tunnelbana/subway has posters for a campaign against Chlamydia in which fingers with condoms on them are pictured. That’s one of those, “Won’t see this in the US moments.” Somewhere else – I don’t recall if it was here or Germany – there was a poster with condoms on fruits and veggies.

One of the guidebooks said that it is very unusual for the Swedish to acknowledge a stranger in public; you know, a smile or some such. I think they’re right.

On the “cool” list – picture, to the side of a wide stairway (e.g., in the T-bana), a section of stairs 8"-10” wide with a flat part on either side. I can’t really describe it; maybe you’ve seen it. It enables someone to walk up the stairs while pushing a stroller or bike at the same time. I’ve seen this once in the US, in a relatively obscure part of a park in Minneapolis. Very cool.

Speaking of strollers – I saw more people with strollers – with children in them – on escalators today than I think I’ve seen in all my years in the US. And the elevators are a lot more accessible here, too. ??

Other things I love – the light flush/heavy flush option on toilets. What I don’t love – paying 5 kroner – about 75 cents – to use the bathroom at the mall. I don’t mind pay toilets at all – they tend to be clean – but 75 cents seems a bit much.

The transit system here is truly exceptional. You hear that, but, my, it is really true. Coming from the Twin Cities where many people can't imagine why anyone would want to spend more on, not improving, but providing mass transit...

Where are the homeless? I did some quick research and Stockholm does have a homeless population. This is the only city of its size I've ever been in where I've not encountered a single person who appeared homeless or was asking for money. Not one single person - not near the T-bana, not in the parks, nothing. I don't know if that's a good thing or bad. The "homeless count" suggests that the percentage is so small its not evident. On the other hand, some cities have such a hostile approach to homelessness that they keep them hidden. I'd like to know more about this.

It reminds me of something I didn't post about - my ride to the airport. I was the only passenger and the driver was a - I'm guessing - thirty-something fellow who had been born in El Paso to a GI father and a German mother. His brother - a Marine - and sister both live in the US. He wants nothing of it. He said, "Life is too hard in the States," and described how poorly he would be paid, etc. I was thinking about that here - the Swedish "safety net" is supposed to be pretty amazing. And, from Wikipedia - though I've seen it elsewhere - "all working parents are entitled to 16 months' paid leave per child, the cost being shared between employer and State. To encourage greater paternal involvement in child-rearing, a minimum of 3 months out of the 18 is required to be used by the "minority" parent, in practice usually the father, and some Swedish political parties on the Left argue for legislation to oblige families to divide the 18 months equally between both parents."

Why is it I keep thinking about how backward the US is on so many issues...?

Okay, today’s report, other than the above –

I got up and made a pilgrimage - by bus, tram, train, and bus – to the Kungens Kurva IKEA. Yes, it's true. L-girl and AAA – I thought of you both! I hadn’t decided whether I was really going to do it or not, but decided to go for it. It was huge, huge, huge and, unlike Amsterdam, actually had stuff that I’ve not seen at home. All I bought was a stuffed animal as a gift for 6YO who has been pestering me for one. I'm traveling with one backpack this weekend so I'm keeping the purchases light!

Then I took a bus and train back to the city center and took the ferry over to the Vasa Museum. This is supposed to be one of the top attractions here. I almost skipped it because I just wasn’t that interested. I am so glad I didn’t. It was just fascinating. In 1628, the ship sank on its first voyage, right in the harbor. In 1961 it was raised and painstakingly restored. It was just incredible to see both the ship and the video about the restoration.

I wandered around for a while, watching some of the Stockholm Marathon. It was way too hot for a marathon, if you ask me. They didn’t.

Later in the afternoon I took the Royal Canal Tour. Tours like these always sound so hokey, but I have found that they are one of the very best ways to get a quick overview of a large city. And it was nice and cool on the boat.

Then, I found – you won’t believe it – a food court, Kungshallen. It had been listed in Lonely Planet as a great place to grab a bite. Since I’m alone it’s hardly worth taking a leisurely meal with wait staff. I had some wonderful chicken tikka masala. This, so I hear, is the #1 dish in London. So, I waited for Stockholm.

That’s about it. Skype has been very unreliable – don’t know if it’s this connection or what – so P and I set up gmail chat which was great. So, that’s my day. Tomorrow, after a leisurely morning, I have to take the bus back to Skavsta airport then take the city bus into Nykoping where I am spending the night because my flight leaves at 07.00 on Monday morning. Once I get back to Frankfurt-Hahn, the bus to Trier doesn’t leave for 2 and a half hours. I should get back to campus around 14.00. I don’t think I’ll have any Internet access for the interim, so, that’s it for now!

Oh, one more thing – last night at 23.00 there was still light in the sky. At 4.00 it was light! I checked and, tonight, sunset is 22.00. Sunrise tomorrow is 03.34.

Updated Sunday morning: I woke up at 04.02. Fortunately, I was able to go back to sleep! :-)

08 June 2007

8 June 2007

Writing at Frankfurt-Hahn Airport: So far, so good. Coming up to stay at the airport the night before was such a great idea. I got up and dressed and literally crossed the street to check in for my flight. I then went back to the hotel and had a delightful breakfast. Afterward, I was able to go back to my room, use the facilities, etc., grab my bag and come over to the airport where security was a breeze – and the agents so pleasant. I am now sitting at the gate waiting to board. Although my German hosts referred to this airport as “in no man’s land,” it’s just great. It’s small, yes, but that makes it easy to get around and it has lots of services.

I have wondered if I’m taking my life in my hands – more so than is usually the case with flying – by taking Ryan Air – a European no frills/discount airline, but all indicators are that it’s just fine. I’ll add a report after I actually fly! For those of you unfamiliar with them, I’m flying from Frankfurt-Hahn, about an hour from Frankfurt I’d guess, to Stockholm, round trip, for 74 euro, or about USD$100. The bus from and to Trier will have been 24 euro, no more than a cab ride in the city. I also have to take a bus from the regional airport near Stockholm to the city proper and it’s a bit more expensive, but, all in all, this is quite nice.

I should put in a plug for the hotel, too. B+B is a French chain that appears to be rapidly expanding into Germany. I checked in last night, stepped out of the elevator where the hallway lights got brighter because someone had entered the area - what a great environmental measure! - and accessed my room by using a code on the door keypad. It was, of course, small, but very nice. One of the things I love about traveling in Europe is the use of duvets. Then there’s the clean simplicity of things. Love it! As it turned out I didn’t sleep “great” as I had hoped – I never seem to do so the first night in a new space. And, being most familiar with hotels in major urban areas of the US, I think it probably bothered me a bit that there are no chains on the doors! But, then, I did once have someone be given the key to my room and walk in only to find me there! Anyway, at 41 euro this was a real find! And, I checked this morning and they have “family rooms” with one double bed and two singles for 59 euro. I’m already planning for when we can make the great European tour! Don’t know what year that might happen with all the other plans, but, we’ll see! I really want P to see Aachen, a small town not far from here and there’s a B+B hotel there, too! ;-)

I guess that’s it for now. We should begin boarding soon. More as it happens!

Friday evening update from my room in Stockholm-Bromma:
The flight was great. As a discount airline it’s one where you don’t get a seat assignment, but I scored an exit row. Very comfy. The flight was a little under 2 hours. We landed at Skavsta Airport, another great little “outside the city” airport. I got some kroner from a cash machine – Sweden declined to adopt the euro – and got a ticket for the bus to Stockholm City. At 199 kroner round trip, that’s USD$28.48 – call it $30 with what the bank will add – that means that my travel to Stockholm, including last night's hotel, ran about USD$215. Not bad. BTW, I'm mentioning all these costs for those who might be curious as to how cheaply you can actually do this.

The ride was about and hour and twenty minutes and I had trouble keeping my eyes open, but I thought I was silly to sleep, even if all I was missing was the countryside. When we arrived I – eventually! – found the tourist office where I was able to buy a transit pass. I had booked a hotel on the outskirts because a) it’s really inexpensive at about USD$61, and b) it’s one way to see more than the tourist center of downtown! I’m really getting my walking in though! I finally made it to the hotel and my great IKEA-like room where I was able to shower and cool off. I then headed back to the city center and wandered around Gamla Stan, or Old Town. I hadn’t had lunch and was starving! I’m not much for traditional Swedish food and I refused to patronize the McDonalds, Burger Kings, or Pizza Huts I had passed but I happened upon an Italian restaurant – always a favorite – and got a table. I was flipping through my Lonely Planet – Stockholm and, what a coincidence, the first thing I had tabbed was this restaurant! I had a great artichoke and mushroom pizza and a Coke Light. Yum. I wandered around a bit more, over some bridges, near Parliament and the Royal Palace, and back to T-Centralen. I took a different train this time so that I could connect to a bus that takes me right to the hotel. I had had enough walking!

So, that’s it for today. I feel like I know how to get around most of the areas I plan to visit. And, because I decided to bring my computer I was able to go to the transit site and get detailed instructions for getting from Point A to Point B. But, I’m exhausted. It’s after 21.00 and still very bright. I didn’t check, but I hear it gets dark around 22.00 or so. More as it happens!

07 June 2007

7 June 2007

Just thought I'd post a brief, "Hi, I'm fine," note. Here's the general recap - I left the US last Saturday evening, 2 June, and arrived in London on Sunday morning around 9.00. Made my way to Victoria Station and on to the bookstores of Charing Cross Road - via Westminster Abbey, the Horse Guards, Parliament, "Big Ben," Downing Street, and many theatres. I went to several bookstores (but not Borders) and hung out at the cafe of Foyles Bookshop where I was able to use Skype to call home. I love Skype. I then made my way back to Victoria Station - having been unsuccessful in finding an original Bloomsbury hardcover of the first Harry Potter book - and to the airport. Just as I had accidentally passed the morning's tourist spots, I found myself on the mall at Saint James's Park headed toward Buckingham Palace, quite unintentionally. It was weird to see the very spot where I had stood for a photo almost 28 years earlier! A couple of hours later I was on my way to Luxembourg. I arrived around 21.00 and was met by one of my colleagues from MN and my host in Trier. We arrived in Trier just before 22.00. The major accomplishment of the day was that my luggage arrived, too! Yea!

I spent M/T/W of this week getting settled - i.e., getting a user ID and installing the software I needed to use their W-LAN. I've had great German food - I love that nice, fattening, heavy German food. My hips don't, but I do! Monday evening we went out with several members of the department. Tuesday we had our first class and it went really well. We have 14 students. One from France, one from Luxembourg, one from Romania, two from Turkey, one daughter of US military, and 8 German students. I think it's going to be a good group. My colleague teaches tomorrow - Race and Class in the US; I teach Tuesday - Social Class and Patterns of Consumption.

Today I had a great day. I spent the morning prepping for class. At 13.00 a couple of folks from the department picked me up to go for a hike. We walked through the forest, up wooden steps, across swinging bridges, past several waterfalls and ended up at a restaurant beneath Burg Ramstein, an old fortification. You can see pictures here. It was just terrific! Then, we went back to Trier and I caught the bus for the Frankfurt-Hahn airport.

Yes, I thought about going to the G8, but decided to spend the weekend in Stockholm instead. Keep your fingers crossed that Ryan Air gets me there! I won't bore you with the details having to do with bus schedules, etc., but I'm staying at this incredible new (French) hotel across the street from the terminal so that I can catch my morning flight. For 41 euro, about USD$55 I have a fabulous room with free wireless and a flatscreen tv. I think that tonight I might get a really good night's sleep!

If all goes well I'll try to post a note from Stockholm. Meanwhile, four weeks from today we arrive in Fredericton! Hope all is well with you!